096. Beauty 2022 Index

The Month of Bests returns

Hi, I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a bi-weekly newsletter on all things slow: beauty, fashion, living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure but thank you if you do.

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It seems almost impossible that it’s already 2023. On that note, Happy New Year! I hope you and your loved ones had a wonderful holiday season. I’m thrilled to be sitting in bed, with coffee nearby, no stressful work Slacks or email notifications, and writing the annual Tender Forms indices. If you’re new, the “Index” newsletters are my “Best of” compilations. There’s a great deal of goodness to share, so let us dive into the most memorable skincare and makeup of 2022! Any repeats from previous years will read “R” followed by the year it’s a repeat of. *Links within paragraphs lead to previous newsletters with fuller reviews.

I’m also being told that this post is too long for email (of course it is), so this one may be better read in the Substack app:

Below is a quick glance at what’s included:

2022 Index: Skincare

TONER / SERUM / OIL / EYE OIL / BALM / LIP BALM / SPF / CLEANSER / TREATMENT + TOOLS

2022 Index: Makeup

FOUNDATION + CONCEALER / POWDER / BROWS / BRONZER + CONTOUR / BLUSH / EYESHADOW / MASCARA / MULTI-USE / LIPS / BRUSHES

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T O N E R 

Earthwise Beauty Three Roses ($74, 100ml | 3.4floz, R 2021)

Honorable Mention:

Wildcare Special Edition Hydrosol Tulsi Sweetgrass  ($26, 50ml | 1.7floz)

Uncommon Yarrow Yarrow Hydrosol ($20 | 2oz, $30 | 4oz)

AKT.Therapy After Sun Botanical Toner ($52, 4oz | 100g)

One stood out amongst the rest, so naturally, there is only one winner this year, and it is the EWB Three Roses. It’s simply the best facial mist I’ve ever come across and is a repeat favorite for a reason. It feels like a dream come true. Ava (founder and creator) has a depth of knowledge one can only hope to learn in a lifetime. And so much of that is distilled into this enchanting elixir. I never thought I’d find a mist that did it all, but this one truly does. It’s more than a hydrosol and has toning qualities without any of the drying and stripping. Plus, the scent is unforgettable. 

Of course, there were two other staples in rotation, and it will come as no surprise that they’re from Wildcare and Uncommon Yarrow. However, a surprise sleeper hit was AKT.Therapy’s After Sun. This was incredible during the summer. If you live in any type of hot climate or have easily inflamed skin, this one is for you. The hydrating and cooling sensation is a welcome respite, and the scent is idiosyncratic: a divine blend of herbaceous, delicately sweet, and tea-leaf qualities. This was the best part of waking up during the dry, intense heat of our summer months. 

S E R U M  

Earthwise Beauty Ambrosia do Cerrado Liquid Moisturizer ($70, 50ml | 1.7floz, R 2021)

Ambrosia do Cerrado is in a category of its own, so it’s not surprising that nothing else came to mind apart from this EWB favorite. Everything from texture to scent to performance is exceptional; a pleasure to use by itself or mixed in with other skincare. This, mixed with EWB Rosa, remains my number one tried-and-true solution for fast brightening and acne scar removal. 

O I L  

Earthwise Beauty Rosa  ($48, 30ml | 1floz, R 2021)

Earthwise Beauty Ferns and Moss Face Serum  ($54, 15ml | .5floz)

Not one but two Earthwise Beauty oils reigned in this category! Rosa is no surprise since it is my all-time favorite facial oil. This year, I also used it on some long-time scarring along my legs, and the results were incredible. However, a new contender now joins for its absolute plush, luxurious texture and deeply moisturizing qualities. Ferns and Moss had me at hello with its scent; simultaneously nostalgic and new, it won my heart and nose. But its true power came in its immediate overhaul of my skin texture. Any dryness went away and was filled with a long-term smoothing, plumping quality I’ve rarely experienced. 

E Y E O I L 

Earthwise Beauty Passion Eye Serum ($36, 5ml | .17floz, R 2021)

You’ve probably noticed a pattern by now. Yes, 2022 was not the most adventurous for me in the realm of skincare, but it brought to light which items I trust and use most often. EWB’s Passion Eye Serum is the only eye-anything I will use. That remained true in 2022, and I don’t see it changing anytime soon. 

B A L M 

Earthwise Beauty Yasuni Face Balm ($100, 30ml | 1oz)

Honorable Mention: Jordan Samuel Skin Moisture Recovery Cream ($34, 1.7oz | 50ml)

To quote what I wrote in a 2021 index: 

This I’ve secretly been using for a few months already, and here’s what you need to know: I love everything about this balm. Yes, I’m making the prediction at the start of the year, but this will most likely be my favorite balm this year.

That prediction came true. There is no other balm that could take this spot. It is not only my favorite balm of the year but has become my favorite balm full-stop. I don’t particularly like the heavy feeling of balms, but I crave their protective and restorative qualities. Yasuni delivers anywhere from satin to a matte finish depending on how much I use, and my skin has thanked me for its unique healing and turnover abilities. 

An honorable mention must be made to the JSS Moisture Recovery Cream. While “cream” is in the name, I categorize it more as a balm. A little goes a very long way, and its silky matte, dry finish is what texture dreams are made of. It’s a spectacular multi-use product, mixes with other skincare beautifully (this and the EWB Farizad’s Veil create my custom ideal SPF), and is so healing as a hand and cuticle balm. It also holds moisture like nothing else. As long as you spritz generously any facial mist beforehand, this cream will lock it in. I’m on my second tube of this and won’t be stopping anytime soon.  

L I P B A L M

URB APOTHECARY Basil Mint Lip Balm ($11, .35oz, R 2021)

While there are a few potted lip balms I absolutely love, I prefer my lip balm in tube form and nothing compares to URB APOTHECARY’s. Everything is just right: texture, performance, price, and packaging. I’m well into my second tube already. 

S P F

SALT & STONE Lightweight Sheer Daily Sunscreen SPF 40 ($34, 2floz | 60ml, R 2021)

Earthwise Beauty Farizad’s Veil Sun Reflector ($44, 10.5g | .37oz)

What is there not to love about the SALT & STONE SPF 40? To me, it’s one of the most highly underrated sunscreens on the market. It’s affordable, packaged in easily recyclable aluminum, you get 2oz instead of the usual 1oz, and it has the magical ability to alter your skin’s appearance like you naturally woke up with beautifully smooth, plump, and slightly glazed skin (depending on if you’re layering this over skincare versus applied on its own). This has a beautiful thick texture yet is breathable! I’ve gone through two tubes of these, and this will remain one of my favorites. 

When I wasn’t using the SALT & STONE, I could be found happy and protected in my custom sunscreen mixture. A bit of EWB Farizad’s Veil mixed into a small dollop of the JSS Recovery Cream gave me the most beautiful and illusive matte sunscreen texture. Though matte, it didn’t cling to any dry patches and didn’t dry out my skin either. This duo is a match made in heaven whether you’re using it on the face or body! (I used this many a time on my hands during the summer.) 

C L E A N S E R

Skin Fancy Honey Rose Cleansing Salve ($38, 2oz | 59ml)

Wildcare Singing Leaves Cleansing Oil ($43, 1.7oz | 50ml)

Gatherwise Seaweed Face Scrub ($42, 2oz | 60ml)

My goodness, I haven’t been this excited about new cleansers in a long time! Three reigned supreme in my 2022 most memorable cleansers, and they’re all surprisingly different. I didn’t split these into first and second cleanses because they work for either! 

Skin Fancy’s Honey Rose Cleansing Salve is a luxe loose-balm texture with powdered honey granules for gentle but effective exfoliation. It feels like this cleanser was made for my skin type: sensitive, dehydrated, and acne-prone, with a few congested areas. The scent is incomparable: a melodic symphony of strawberry, rich honey, and greenery. The texture is magic; the non-emulsifying blend of oils and beeswax gives it enough grip while maintaining a luscious quality. And the honey granules provide just the right amount of physical exfoliation. I find with body heat, the granules slowly melt away as you work it into the skin; perfectly self-timed. It removes makeup and sunscreen and deep cleans without stripping. Plus, my skin feels so plump and soft afterward. It’s heaven. 

Wildcare Singing Leaves Cleansing Oil is my favorite emulsifying oil cleanser. Period. Cortney (founder and creator) has unparalleled intuition when it comes to caring for the skin. Her brand is one of the few that house positive energies that often get lost within skincare, even within the green beauty realm. Wildcare is a brand with feeling. And the overwhelming feeling one gets is love. If you have yet to try this brand, what are you waiting for? (Her Rosemary + Bay hydrosol is one of my OG all-time favorites.) 

Gatherwise’s Seaweed Face Scrub is another stellar discovery of this year. I love this for all the different ways it can be used. On bare-face days, a dime size amount of this applied to damp skin will give you a bright, clean feel without stripping. Don’t let the “scrub” in the name intimidate you, either. This is one of the most gentle physical exfoliations I’ve ever felt; “soft” is a word I would use to describe it! The scent is a harmonizing blend of bright citrus and grounding salinity. It can also be mixed into oil or cream cleansers for a little extra buffing quality or used alone in a larger quantity as a detoxifying face mask. 

T R E A T M E N T + T O O L S

Earthwise Beauty Catharsis Face Mask ($50, 24g | .8oz, R 2021)

Lanshin Pro Gua Sha Tool ($125, R 2020, 2021)

Lanshin Nephrite Sculpting Spoon ($58, R 2020, 2021)

Lanshin Massager by Acera in Oyster Grey ($59)

In 2022, I pulled back significantly on masking. If it wasn’t clear already, I really dug in and honed in on what works for me and my skin this year. I found my daily routines worked so well I felt less of a need to mask weekly. However, as someone with easily congested skin, a detoxifying mask is always what I reach for. So I found that once I emptied all my other masks, only one remained to fill all my masking needs, and it was none other than EWB’s Catharsis. I can’t think of a better mask to take its place, and I imagine this will be the only mask I’ll use in 2023. 

As for tools, none of these will come as a surprise. Lanshin is the reigning champ when it comes to facial and body massage tools. Nothing compares. Sandra’s (founder and creator) profound knowledge of Traditional Chinese Medicine and her innate keen eye for design and massage are simply exceptional. I have gifted and recommended her tools throughout the years because they are unrivaled in quality and that much of a joy to use, hold, and admire. The Pro Gua Sha Tool and Sculpting Spoon are both three years running, and the Massager in Oyster Grey is joining the list. And in case you’re wondering, these are listed in order of favorites (Pro Gua Sha Tool holding my number one spot). 

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While I was slightly more adventurous with makeup this year, it follows a similar theme of skincare, where 2022 was about defining the foolproof yet still enjoying my everyday or not everyday makeup. 

F O U N D A T I O N + C O N C E A L E R 

Alima Pure Pressed Foundation with Rosehip Antioxidant Complex in Sesame ($26 refill, .31oz | 9g, R 2021)

I’m currently well into my second pan of this. I have never in my life finished an entire complexion product. That’s how amazing this powder is. You can read my very in-depth gush here. It ranges from sheer to full coverage and is the perfect shade for me, especially when I’m wearing sunscreen that slightly brightens my complexion. It’s affordable and refillable; I just invested in the full compact this year and use it as my daily makeup mirror. 

P O W D E R

Westman Atelier Vital Pressed Skincare Powder in Crème ($75, .17oz | 5g)

Long-time subscribers will know that I’m a powder (pressed, not loose) person. I just prefer the application’s ease and longevity of it. And I realize that this is a $75 powder; I really do. But I can’t help that I absolutely love it. No powder or complexion product has ever been able to deliver on the “blurring” claim except for this one. And now I understand why people use blurring products; it’s incredible! This is one of the softest, finest powders I’ve ever used, and very little goes an extra long way. 

Similar to how the Alima Pure hardpans, this does too. I just have to put it out there. Hard panning bothers me like nothing else, but I look and work past it because I can’t imagine not using this powder. This powder is made to be used lightly, and that means a fluffy, soft-bristle powder brush works best. The lightest dusting will smooth pores and set makeup. It will remove some of the skincare and makeup glow but leaves a beautiful, natural radiance. It takes down any tacky products and leaves a smooth finish. It also looks undetectable and feels weightless. I can’t say enough good things about this powder. The only thing it lacks is coverage, but it’s not meant to be a coverage product. That’s what my Alima Pure is for! This is also supposed to be the first refillable Westman Atelier product; however, I have yet to see a refill purchase option. I’m hoping refills make their debut this year!

B R O W S 

MOB Beauty Cake Liner M41 ($18 refill, 1.8g | .06oz, R 2021)

Westman Atelier Bonne Brow Defining Pencil in Slate ($38, .01oz | .34g)

Honorable Mention: Kjaer Weis FeatherTouch Brow Gel in Deep Brown  ($24 refill, .16floz | 5ml, R 2021)

My year was split between three brow products, and they all made the list. The first is a well-known repeat, the MOB Beauty Cake Liner in M41. The shade match is just so rare and ideal for a cooler brow. It also has great longevity. 

The second is the WA Bonne Brow in Slate. Another stellar shade match for my brows; however, this one has a touch of brown while still staying cool enough for my preference. I love this brow pencil. It has a powder finish which gives it the softer look I prefer, but one can still get hair-like strokes if it’s sharp! The detachable spoolie is a welcome addition to the packaging. I thought I’d prefer a brow gel, but I enjoy the dry spoolie! Moreso, I enjoy that no other makeup (powder or otherwise) gets stuck in my brow hairs now. 

The third is the Kjaer Weis brow gel in deep brown. Another cool brown that has a bit more taupe than the other two. This fills in my brows surprisingly well and gets an honorable mention because I still enjoy it and would definitely repurchase it. 

B R O N Z E R + C O N T O U R 

MOB Beauty Bronzer M36 ($25 refill, 4g | .14oz, R 2021)

The second year running and going strong. I hit pan a long time ago and am still slowly chipping away at it! I use this daily to sculpt and add a hint of rosiness to my cheeks. It also works beautifully on the eyes. I love this shade so much; there’s nothing else like it. 

B L U S H

MOB Beauty Cream Clay Blush M68 and M91 ($25 refill, 3.2g | .11oz)

I’ve said it countless times, and I’ll say it again, the MOB Beauty cream blushes are my favorite in the market, hands down. In 2022, my love was split between two shades: M68, a strawberry pink, and M91, a tulip pink. Aside from a neutral rose nude, pinks are truly my preferred blush color. They give my complexion a bit of life, brightness, and joy. I was thrilled when MOB released their latest M91 shade because it’s the perfect cool-toned pink I’ve been pining for. They really nailed an exquisite balance of magenta and white to achieve this type of pink. It’s milky enough to remain bright without being chalky, and the amount of magenta leans it just cool enough to brighten any complexion. This one has quickly taken the number one spot in my blush collection. M68 is a warmer, deeper pink by comparison.

E Y E S H A D O W

MOB Beauty Cake Liner in M90 ($15 refill, 1.8g | .06oz)

I didn’t think anything could surpass the MOB Beauty M4 Espresso eyeshadow, but they outdid themselves with their latest deep brown cake liner. The Cake Liners are meant to be used wet, but I happen to also love using them dry. I’ll coat any type of eyeliner brush and run this along my upper lash line dry for a bit of definition. It provides the most beautifully soft cool brown. 

MOB Beauty Eyeshadow in M6  ($18 refill, 1.8g | .06oz, R 2021)

This shade still went strong as one of my favorite everyday one-wash colors. 

M A S C A R A 

Kjaer Weis Lengthening Mascara ($30 or $24 refill, .19oz | 5.4g, R 2021)

I didn’t use much mascara this year; I really just can’t be bothered with it (ha)! However, there’s only one that I enjoyed, and it’s, of course, the Kjaer Weis Lengthening Mascara. 

M U L T I - U S E 

MOB Beauty Cream Clay Blush ($25 refill, 3.2g | .11oz, R 2021)

Both of the aforementioned blushes are great on the eyes, cheeks, and lips. However, M91 runs very light on my pigmented lips, so requires either a darker lip liner or mixed with a deeper shade. On its own, the appearance is akin to a pinky-concealer lip.

Kjaer Weis Matte, Naturally Liquid Lip in Enthralling ($30 or $22 refill, .14floz | 4ml, R 2021)

I am surprised by just how long this lasted. It has an 18-month PAO, but I’ve found Kjaer Weis products never tend to last as long as the PAO. Enthralling made it just under 18 months, and I loved every second of using it. This formula really lends itself to be multipurpose. The slim doe-foot allows for precise application while the formula itself blends out beautifully, no matter how small or large the intended area. Not to mention its exceptional hue. 

Westman Atelier Super Loaded Tinted Highlight in Peau de Soleil ($75, .14oz | 4g, R 2020, 2021)

Three years running! This continues to be unlike any other item I own in both shade and formula. It’s my go-to when I want a more gilded look, especially on the eyes. It is also almost a full year past its PAO and is going strong. 

L I P S / N E U T R A L

Victoria Beckham Beauty Bitten Lip Tint in Chérie ($36, 5.7ml | .19floz)

Kjaer Weis Matte, Naturally Liquid Lip in Enthralling  ($30 or $22 refill, .14floz | 4ml, R 2021)

If I had to choose a favorite lip product for 2022, it would be VB’s Chérie. It is such a tremendous formula and nuanced hue encased in phenomenal packaging. There’s nothing out there like it. 

Of course, a close second would be Kjaer Weis’ Enthralling. 

L I P S / B R I G H T 

MOB Beauty Matte Lipstick M67  ($22 refill, 3g | .10oz, R 2021)

I didn’t wear any bright lipstick until the month of December (ha). But once that holiday spirit rolled around, naturally, I took out MOB Beauty’s M67. It’s the perfect holiday, but really, any day red. 

L I P S / G L O S S

Westman Atelier Squeaky Clean Liquid Lip Balm in Nana ($38, .21floz | 6ml)

Long-time subscribers know that I’m not a big gloss person. This is why it’s a very big deal that I’ve included one in this year’s Beauty Index. Obviously, it had to be WA’s Nana. I love everything about this gloss, from its unrivaled color to its magnificent packaging. I’ve recently found the perfect lip liner to go with this, too, and thus has kicked it up a notch in my everyday wear. If you’re a gloss person, I can’t recommend this one enough! 

B R U S H / B R O W S

Wayne Goss Brush 21 ($28, 4mm bristle length, also sold in The Brow Set)

I rediscovered my love of this brow brush when using it with the MOB Beauty Cake Liner. Since the bristles are quite stiff, it’s quick and easy to draw hairlike strokes using its uniquely flat-shaped edge. This brush gives just the right amount of definition, an underrated gem. 

B R U S H / P O W D E R

Westman Atelier Powder Brush ($85, ~5.5” handle length)

You will notice there are quite a few Westman Atelier brushes in this brush section. As these are pricey, I usually wait to buy them during a 20% off sale (Credo, Sephora, Instagram). 

I fell madly in love with this brush. Yes, half of it is probably because of the WA powder I used it with, but this brush is noteworthy in its own right. The quality of WA brushes is just in a league of their own and cruelty-free! The powder brush is no different: unbelievably soft and loose enough to pick up the lightest layer of powder to sweep across the skin. This works great with any complexion powder (setting, blush, bronzer, etc.). 

B R U S H / F A C E

Westman Atelier Blender Brush ($125, ~5.5” handle length, R 2020, 2021)

Bobbi Brown Full Coverage Face Brush ($52, ~5.29” in length, R 2020, 2021)

Both of these are three years running for good reason; they’re just the best. The WA Blender Brush is one of the softest brushes ever and works great across any medium: liquid, powder, oil, and creams. Bobbi Brown takes it a step further by providing a great deal more coverage.

B R U S H / M U L T I - U S E

Westman Atelier Baby Blender Brush ($64, ~4.75” handle length)

Another new addition to the collection, this is surprisingly great for concealing! I use this for under eyes and spot concealing (albeit not for pinpoint work). Thanks to its smaller footprint, I also use this for precise applications of blush, contour, and highlighter. 

B R U S H / E Y E S

Rephr Brush 16  ($24, 21mm bristle length, R 2021)

I still enjoyed this one for any quick one-and-done shadows all over the lid. The larger size also makes it great for under-eye setting. 

Rephr Brush 02 ($24, 10mm bristle length)

Because I almost exclusively used powder eyeshadow this year, this one came in handy for when I wanted to pack on a bit more color. 

Wayne Goss Brush 06 ($25, ~5.7” in length, R 2020, 2021)

Wayne Goss Brush 07 ($17, ~5.5” handle length, R 2020, 2021)

Both of these are three-time repeats and won’t be stopping anytime soon. They’re by far some of my favorite eye brushes (though brush 07 is meant for the lips). However, neither of these seems to be on the Beautylish site anymore. It’s unclear if they will restock or if they’re in the process of redesigning. *Just a heads up, these are not the same as the “Goss Edit” brushes if you’re going off the number alone. 

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Thanks so much for reading! Whew, this was one lengthy post, but I hope you enjoyed it! Did you venture a guess for any of these categories, and did you get them right? I’d also love to know what made it onto your best-of lists! Along with today’s newsletter, I’ve also started a Tender Forms chat on the Substack app! I’d love for anyone to join in on the yearly favorites discussion and have an easy place to browse through them all.

As always, I hope you have a great start to your week! See you January 22!