084. All Things Base
Hi, I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a weekly newsletter on all things slow: beauty, fashion, living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure but thank you if you do.
In my last newsletter, I went in deep about my foundation journey. As promised, today’s newsletter will be all about my current favorite base. In actuality, it is more my tried-and-true base, considering I’ve been wearing it since mid-September of last year. I am so excited to go into detail finally!
I. Skincare
I want to briefly touch upon skincare because it plays a large role in how complexion products interact and sit on the skin. Skincare is always the category I invest in most. In my mind, when I distill the definition of the word “base,” skin is what defines it. When my skin is taken care of, my complexion products take a back seat, and I don’t need to lean on having to even or add coverage.
Because I invest in my skincare, I also want to be using it daily, both AM and PM. This means I don’t tend to look for complexion items that boast as both skincare and makeup or are supposedly one-step items (tinted moisturizers with SPF, serum skin tints, foundations with skincare actives). My skin does best with a minimal routine. If I’m using skincare that already has beneficial properties, I don’t want to bombard my skin with more, whether that be niacinamide, vitamin C, lactic acid, etc.
II. SPF
The second most important part of the base is sunscreen. Mondays through Saturdays, I am always wearing sunscreen. This is because I am in the office where it gets lots of natural light; plus, I sit in front of a computer monitor for 11+ hours a day now, which adds an ample dose of blue light.
Since I am diligent with my sunscreen, it’s imperative I understand how my sunscreen interacts with my complexion product. Sunscreen is mandatory for me, so I look for complexion items that will work synergistically with my SPF of choice. If you read the Tender Forms Beauty 2021 Index, it will come as no surprise that this is my favorite SPF:
SALT & STONE Lightweight Sheer Daily Sunscreen SPF 40 ($34, 2floz | 60ml)
Like many, I have been on a decade-long hunt for the perfect SPF, and while I am convinced it might never exist, this one is, by far, the closest to perfection I’ve found. It does everything I want and nothing I don’t.
Want:
Non-nano mineral sunscreen (zinc-oxide preferred)
Lets my skin breathe
Stays put
Comfortable to wear
SPF 30 and above
Plays well with makeup
Don’t want:
Overloaded with a ton of skincare (niacinamide, vitamin c, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, all personal preferences)
Fragranced
Slides around
Breaks apart during wear
Greasy feeling
Overly dewy, glowy looking
Causes breakouts and congestion
This SPF is simply fabulous. It somehow always makes my skin look incredibly healthy while giving that glass-skin look. What I perhaps love most is that it doesn’t boast a whole lot. It has skincare but isn’t bells and whistles about it; it’s also oil-free and doesn’t claim to replace your moisturizer or be a skin tint (since there is no tint). For a non-tinted mineral SPF, it has the lowest amount of white cast I’ve ever experienced in a formula. Remember in the last newsletter when I mentioned my face is darker than my neck and arms? That makes me welcome the very slight “tone-up” brightening effect of this SPF. (Again, the white cast is considerably less than mineral sunscreens on the market with high percentages of Zinc Oxide.)
I don’t even mind that it retains a bit of tackiness after it’s dried down because everything else about it is incredible! But I think you know where I’m going with this.
III. Complexion
If you’re a long-time subscriber, you know any form of tackiness on my skin is usually a deal-breaker. So how come the above SPF is not? Well, it’s thanks to this complexion product I have been wholly loving:
Alima Pure Pressed Foundation with Rosehip Antioxidant Complex in Sesame ($26 refill, .31oz | 9g)
This is both a rekindled and newfound love. I originally tried this many moons ago, back in 2017, in the exact same shade! However, my skin was very different back then trying to survive the brutal NYC/east coast winters and was much cooler and paler. Needless to say, the shade was too dark and yellow then (to no one’s fault but my own). Fast forward to today, where this same Sesame shade is now the best match I have ever found!
Since I had found my holy grail SPF, the next step was to find a complexion product that complemented it. Remember that slight tackiness I spoke of? That was what led to the decision to find a powder complexion product. And the purpose was to use it as a setting powder.
At the time, I wasn’t looking for much coverage, so the fact that it was a foundation was only a bonus. However, as work became more stressful and the long hours took their toll, I was incredibly surprised and thankful to find that the coverage was incredibly buildable.
I love everything about this powder, and here’s why:
Depth
While not as extensive a shade range as their Satin Matte Foundation, the Pressed Foundation still has 17 shades ranging from light to deep.
Tone
True to Alima Pure fashion, it covers a wide tone range, including cool, neutral, beige, warm, and olive. The olive undertone of Sesame is phenomenal.
Saturation
To my eyes, the pigment is pretty saturated, which is why the olive pulls through even in a light dusting (which I love). Because it’s saturated enough, this powder doubles as a shade adjuster for me. If I’m using a cream concealer or foundation that leans pink or peach, I can put a layer of this over, and it will correct to match me better. This has been excellent for helping me use up some of the other complexion items that don’t match me. *If I am doubling up, I will use less of the cream concealer or foundation since I know I’ll go over it with this. Otherwise, things get too cakey or too full coverage for my preference.
Opacity
The range of coverage is astonishingly good: from a sheer hint of tint to a solid medium to full coverage on me. This is both thanks to it being so finely milled and its buildability (with the right tools, of course).
Speaking of tools, this has to be one of the most intuitive products I’ve ever had the pleasure of using. As someone who loves brushes and has spent a good deal of time building a minimal yet practical collection to cover all ground, a variety of brushes work with this powder. Here are a few favorites and their corresponding opacity levels (*listed from sheer to full):
Wayne Goss Brush 02 ($35, ~6.5" in length): Sheer
I use this on days when I really only have time to set the under eyes. This brush provides the lightest dusting to remove any unwanted shine.Westman Atelier Blender Brush* ($125, ~5.5" in length): Sheer to Light
Though this brush has a lot of bristles, it’s very loose, so it offers a sheer to light coverage. This is the one I reach for when I use it as a setting powder; it can do the whole face in seconds.Wayne Goss Brush 11 (discontinued?) Similar: Wayne Goss Edit Brush 02 ($43, 7" in length): Light to Light-Medium
This brush is ever so slightly denser than the Westman Atelier brush, so it not only picks up more product but can be buffed into the skin for a bit more coverage. On days when I need less coverage, this is my one-and-done brush. I go in with a dusting to set and even skin tone, then apply bronzer/blush/contour. Easy peasy.Bobbi Brown Full Coverage Face Brush ($52, ~5.29" in length): Light-Medium to Medium-Full
This is what I use daily, and I love the combo. True to its name, this brush with the Pressed Foundation will give me a true medium to medium-full coverage. The SALT & STONE SPF acts as a terrific primer since it has some grip. I swirl this brush in the pan and stipple it onto the skin (no circular or linear brushing, buffing, or swiping). It delivers a base that looks like real skin as if I woke up this way. The amount of opacity I get is dependent on how much I load onto the brush. If I do a gentle swirl, it provides a light-medium coverage. A more aggressive swirl or two will be a solid medium. If I build on top, then it’s a medium-full.Alima Pure Sponge (included with refill): Full
This sponge comes with the Pressed Foundation whether you purchase the compact or refill. It’s similar to other sponges that come in powder compacts: flat, dense, soft with a good amount of give for a pouncing or stamping motion. If you dampen the sponge and dip it into the pan to create something akin to a cream foundation, this will deliver full coverage! *I’m not a sponge-user, so I’m not sure if using a Beautyblender or another makeup sponge would offer the same amount of coverage.
Finish
Depending on the amount I’m using, it can give a satin, skin-like finish with a light dusting as setting powder or a matte finish when I build up to medium coverage. This also means no matter the amount I use; there is no tackiness left on the skin after SPF. A win! Plus, this powder makes my heart soar with how lightweight it feels on the skin.
IV. Ingredients and Cons
I believe the number one reason most people decide to forgo this foundation is because of its ingredient list. And, at first blush, I too did a double-take.
Benzyl Alcohol is the sixth ingredient. However, as a powder that I’m dipping into frequently and daily, it makes sense to have this near the top to make sure nothing funky grows. My sensitive, acne-prone skin hasn’t had any reaction to it.
Parfum is the seventh ingredient listed. It doesn’t say so on the packaging, but rest assured the “parfum” is as the website states: “*Made from a proprietary blend of all-natural essential oils.” Would I have rather it be unscented? Sure. But despite being so high on the ingredient list, my sensitive skin has not had any reaction to the essential oil fragrance. As for the scent itself, it is, as expected, most strong when you first open the package. But it dissipates quickly, and with continued daily use, it’s lost almost the entirety of the scent. Whenever I catch a hint of it, it simply smells like a light, fresh floral and doesn’t bother me.
I must admit I was slightly concerned about the “Rosehip Antioxidant Complex.” Most rosehip oils tend to break me out, but I am happy to report this one does not!
This powder is surprisingly packed with very nourishing and moisturizing ingredients, which is why I think it feels so incredible on the skin. Most dry skin types tend to stay away from powders since they get a bad rap for being drying. I have normal to dry skin and don’t find this drying at all. Setting powders are more drying on me than this lovely foundation. Plus, I wore and am wearing this powder during the winter, and it’s been as comfortable to wear as in summer.
There are no real “cons” to the Alima Pure Pressed Foundation. The following two items are from me scrutinizing to try and find “cons.”
Depending on your skincare and SPF, this powder may hardpan. It has with me, but nowhere near as severely as the Kosas Cloud Set (hardpans after each use). This hardpans every other month or so, and I scrape off the thin top layer, and it’s good to go again.
I so appreciate Alima Pure’s refill system and recyclable outer packaging. This is why I wish there were an option to purchase the refill without the extra makeup sponge for those who don’t use it.
V. Adoration
In case it wasn’t clear from all the gushing and photographic evidence above, I adore this powder. I’ve been using this daily for over five months, and it’s still going strong, which makes it incredibly affordable! It also has a 12-month PAO, so I have plenty of time to finish it before it hits that mark. When I purchase a refill, I will definitely be purchasing the compact. I didn’t the first time because I wanted to make sure I liked it. I’ve been keeping it in a magnetic palette which has worked great, but the powder does get around the pan with daily use so if there are any cream pans nearby, watch out!
All in all, if you are looking for a no-fuss, buildable foundation offered at a wide range of undertones, I cannot recommend this enough.
Thanks so much for reading! I’m sorry I’ve been MIA on social media for a bit. Work has been grueling, and it’s been tough motivating myself to stare at my phone screen after staring at a computer screen for so long. Plus, the kittens were just neutered, so we’ve been spending extra time watching them and making sure they’re comfy and healing well—apologies for my outstanding delay in responses. I see your lovely comments, DMs, and emails and will respond soon! In the meantime, you might as well add to the list by replying to this email and leaving a comment, haha!
I’d love to hear if you’ve tried this foundation or what your recent favorite base has been. It seems like every brand is coming out with new complexion items these days!
As always, I hope you have a great start to your week. See you March 13!
Hi, Maggie! I really want to try both of these items now especially the Amila Pure pressed foundation! Reading about it, (as I have commented on your other post) - I used to really enjoy that Clinique pressed powder and now I started having this nostalgic memory about it because I really adored how it can be sheered down and full coverage. This, without fussing about whether it would make me look too dewy or too dry and cake-y. Since I'm prioritizing skincare too, it's about the balance of what I'm using underneath as well when it comes to finding a suitable foundation. I wish they could have a sample or something (I remember when it was loose powder they did!) because finding a match is soo tricky. I hope I could get a close shade match! It's also good that you are not having any reaction to the essential oils in it too! I think if it wasn't for your review, I would be taken back to try it but since we have somewhat similar skin ;)
As for me, I just finished up Saie Sunvisor which I suspect it will be too glowy for you. I really enjoyed it much more than their Slip Tint. Although I agree, it is a slippery texture but it makes my now-even-drier skin looks so damn good. Interestingly, it's not necessarily as hydrating as I thought. On the fence whether that one is a repurchase but for now, it's most likely but I do enjoy venturing into other sunsreens so maybe not soon! Sometimes, I would also use Kinfield Daily Dew - a little white cast on me, not tacky but it does leave a slight glow. I enjoy it but I just trialled their new released Sunglow rfom Ayla and that one surprisingly has a much lighter texture despite it being sun"glow"! I was worried about the undertone because it's leaning more pink (like rose-gold) but it does somewhat dissipate and I don't look like a disco ball, more subtle than Saie Glowy Gel base and less slippery than Saie actually. I love that it's priced less than the average green sunscreen too with comfortable finish and texture.