080. Beauty 2021 Index: Pt. 2 Makeup
Plus all the upcoming TV series on my watchlist.
Hi, I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a weekly newsletter on all things slow: beauty, fashion, living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure but thank you if you do.
Today, we’re continuing the Tender Forms 2021 Index with Most Memorable Makeup! Still following last year’s format: in order of application, with a bonus at the end of which brushes were my favorite. Any repeats from previous years will read “R” followed by the year it’s a repeat of! *Links within paragraphs lead to previous newsletters with their full reviews.
F O U N D A T I O N + C O N C E A L E R :
evanhealy Tinted Oil Serum Foundation* ($29.95, 1floz | 30ml, R 2020)
As usual, I’m combining the Foundation and Concealer categories as I usually use one item for both purposes. evanhealy’s Tinted Oil foundation was still a favorite of 2021 and still the best tinted oil foundation, clean or conventional. I use shade 15 (winter) and shade 25 (summer). I love the lightweight coverage and how seamlessly it blends into the skin. Of course, I have to powder because it’s too glowy for me on its own, but if you love glow, you can leave it as is!
Alima Pure Pressed Foundation with Rosehip Antioxidant Complex in Sesame ($26 refill, .31oz | 9g)
This was the foundation I’d been using for the second half of the year. It will have its moment in the spotlight in an upcoming foundation newsletter, but for now, know that I have fallen madly in love with this. Paired with my SALT & STONE SPF 40, this provides the most flawless, best shade-matched base I’ve ever achieved! I purchased this to use as a setting powder rather than a foundation, and to my delight, it makes one heck of a setting powder. You can build this foundation from sheer to a solid light-medium. I love the range of coverage it offers, plus it helps color correct any base product to match me better!
P O W D E R :
RMS Beauty “Un” Powder ($34, .32oz | 9g, R 2019, 2020)
For the first half of this year, the RMS Beauty “Un” Powder still reigned supreme right up to its 24-month PAO expiration. This powder is a three-peat for a reason! If you want to set your makeup so that it won’t budge and won’t look cakey or feel incredibly drying, this powder is for you. Even with consistent use for two years, I’ve only used about 1/3 of the jar! It still works fine; thus, I keep it despite being past its PAO. Plus, it works as a terrific dry shampoo when I’m in a pinch!
Alima Pure Pressed Foundation with Rosehip Antioxidant Complex in Sesame ($26 refill, .31oz | 9g) as mentioned above.
B R O W S : MOB Beauty Cake Liner M41* ($18 refill, 1.8g | .06oz)
This was my number one brow powder of 2021 (and it will remain that way going into 2022, I’m sure)! The MOB Beauty Cake Liner is the perfect shade for filling in sparse areas. No matter what brow gel I’m using, this is the powder I reach for and will consistently deliver naturally defined-looking brows. Plus, the powder stays all day!
Honorable Mention: Kjaer Weis FeatherTouch Brow Gel in Deep Brown ($24 refill, .16floz | 5ml)
I am placing this as an honorable mention since I haven’t reached the end of this yet! However, I can say that I would certainly repurchase this. The shade Deep Brown is an excellent match, and I love how user-friendly it is. I brush this through on more natural makeup days, and I’m good to go. If I want more defined brows, then I go in with a bit of the MOB Beauty Cake Liner. My brow hairs also respond exceptionally well to this formula. Hairs have grown a considerable amount in my sparse areas!
B R O N Z E R + C O N T O U R : MOB Beauty Bronzer M36* ($25 refill, 4g | .14oz)
This has been the only bronzer I’ve used since February 2021! There’s a visible dent because I use this every day, and even after almost a year, I don’t see myself stopping anytime soon. I stick by what I wrote in my first review:
This is the ultimate bronzer/blush/contour.
I will never find a bronzer that’s better suited for my pale skin than this one! M36 does everything I want in a bronzer and more. It warms the skin while adding a subtle rosy flush, yet it’s cool enough that it falls like a shadow in the contours of my face. It’s what I wear for work every day. It goes with any outfit, makeup, looks natural, and is simply beautiful. I often wear it on the eyes as well for a monochromatic look. It’s a desert island product for sure. If your skin tone is on the paler side of things, and most bronzers look an unnatural color on you, I highly recommend trying this gem!
B L U S H : MOB Beauty Cream Clay Blush M68* ($25 refill, 3.2g | .11oz)
I was blown away by the MOB Cream Clay Blush when they launched earlier this year. There is an endless sea of cream blush options out on the market, green and conventional, but this formula tops all of them. It’s even replaced (get ready) my Rituel de Fille Inner Glow Crème Pigment, and longtime subscribers know how much I adore that formula. The MOB Cream Clay Blush wins in all categories: pigmentation, buildability, longevity, and shade range (currently available in 8 shades). It’s a true multipurpose formula. They not only look beautiful on the cheeks as intended but are equally lovely on the eyes, and shockingly, make the most beautiful lip stains I’ve ever tried (topping actual lip stain formulas in wear and comfortability). M68 was the one I reached for the most when it came to blush this year. On days where I wanted to brighten my complexion or do the ultimate no-makeup makeup look, this was the shade I wore. It provides a bright but natural flush and instantly makes my skin look incredibly healthy. I truly hope they’ll expand the range because I’d like one of each, please. (I’m well on my way already. Apart from the four the brand generously gifted, I also purchased M74, a rosewood, during their holiday sale.)
E Y E S H A D O W / P A L E T T E : None.
I didn’t purchase any eyeshadow palettes in 2021, nor did I use much of my existing eyeshadow palettes. Last year, my makeup preferences took a noticeable turn, and I am now building my own custom palette with MOB Beauty eyeshadow singles instead. Of course, this takes some planning, budget, and time, but I will keep you posted in 2022!
E Y E S H A D O W / S I N G L E :
Rituel de Fille Celestial Sphere Gelée Eye Gloss in Serpens ($38, .13oz | 3.8g, use this link for $10 off your order)
One day, this particular shade happened to make its way into the Rituelist Rewards section, and I immediately picked it up with my points. I’m so glad I did because this shade is nothing short of incredible. I’ve tried their Celestial Sphere before but in a different shade that didn’t wow me as much.
Serpens, however, is a rare transformative shade I haven’t encountered elsewhere.
The power of the Celestial Sphere Gelées comes in the dynamism of their base and shift colors as they hit light and shadow. Serpens is described as a “Rich, molten, dark gold shimmer eyeshadow in a black gelée base,” and it’s that and more. I love the surprising versatility of this shade. While the shimmer suspends in a black base, it’s more of a gunmetal gray than pitch black, which to me, makes it an excellent choice for more wearable daytime looks or deep sultry nighttime grunge. What pushed this over from like to love was that it’s secretly the best everyday eyeliner. Lined thinly along the upper lashline, this looked amazing during my daily work Zoom calls. On camera, it looked like my lashes were lovely and full, while in person, whenever it hit the light, and a bit of that molten gold showed through, it was a moment of unexpected magic.
MOB Beauty Eyeshadow in M6* ($18 refill, 1.8g | .06oz)
I used this shade as a one-wash color, all over the lid almost every single workday. M6 is a matte peachy beige and my ideal shade to bring a bit of dimension to the eye without looking like I’m wearing eyeshadow.
MOB Beauty Eyeshadow in M4* ($18 refill, 1.8g | .06oz)
M4, a matte espresso, was my daily liner (upper lashline) to help thicken my lashes whenever I wasn’t wearing mascara (majority of the year). This helped give an appearance of fuller lashes and stays put throughout the day. The brown also makes the definition softer than using a black. During the summer, I also occasionally mixed this with the Cake Liner M41 to fill in my brows when I wanted them to be a touch warmer.
M A S C A R A :
Lengthening: Kjaer Weis Lengthening Mascara ($30 or $24 refill, .19oz | 5.4g)
Mascara is one of the most challenging categories simply because everyone’s preference is so unique. In 2021, I was reunited with an old favorite, and I could not have been happier to do so. It was a truly joyful experience to use the KW Lengthening Mascara again. Back in 2014, I want to say; I went through tubes of this. First, the scent is delightful: delicate, light, and somewhat sweet, in a naturally ripe fruit kind of way. Second is the unbelievably natural fluttery lashes it gives me. As with most Asian lashes, I have the stubborn, straight kind that won’t hold a curl (though I’m not the type to seek a curl in general), that show up as dark grey hairs at best (as opposed to my very long, black head of hair). The KW mascara coats it in a natural, no-clump manner, and because it’s so lightweight, it remains lifted and tinted throughout the day. For most, this is more a tint than mascara, but I love it for that. I get minimal flakes; I’m talking two tiny max at the end of a 10-hour workday and no smudging. It’s a miracle. Plus, it is one of the easiest mascaras to remove, making my few and far between delicate lashes sing its praises. On top of that, my lashes also respond exceptionally well to this formula. Whenever I wear this mascara consistently, my lashes fill out more than usual.
Volumizing: MOB Beauty Volumizing Mascara M66* ($29 or $24 refill)
On the other end of the spectrum is the lovely MOB Volumizing Mascara. As seen in the name, wow, is this mascara volumizing. On days where I want dramatic, full, thick, fluttery lashes (as if they were falsies instead of my own), this achieves that in no time flat. Typically I’m not too fond of bristle wands, but this one may have converted me to a bristle wand lover. It coats my lashes easily and builds volume and, surprisingly, sky-high length. I don’t curl my lashes before mascara, but this does all the lifting for me. I’ve also tested it with curled lashes, and they stay curled with this one. It’s insane. It’s also a deep, rich, inky black that dries down to look matte, and you know, I love a matte finish. Plus, this removes with just water! Oil cleanser will do it too, but since the depth of black is so rich, it takes a bit. I find the easiest way is to remove most of it with a wet reusable cotton round, then finish removing the rest with my oil cleanser along with the rest of my face. I am so impressed by this mascara.
I finally understand why people love volumizing formulas.
And did I mention it has a 6-month PAO?
M U L T I - U S E :
MOB Beauty Cream Clay Blush* ($25 refill, 3.2g | .11oz)
This is my number one multi-use item in any of the four shades I got. Equally stunning whether they were on the eyes, cheeks, or lips. They made getting ready for work (early in the morning when my brain wasn’t awake yet) a breeze, and the variety of shades catered to any mood.
M68, a strawberry pink, I already wrote about above
M70, a soft coral, was perfect for ultra-natural makeup days
M71, a deep plum, hit its stride once the fall weather came. I adore this shade on the lips
M75, a hot pink coral, made any day brighter and brought extra joy in the summertime
Kjaer Weis Matte, Naturally Liquid Lip in Enthralling ($30 or $22 refill, .14floz | 4ml)
I fell head over heels for Enthralling this year. It was a product I used all the time in 2021, yet never seemed to write or post about! Aptly described, Enthralling is the most beautiful warm dusty rose I’ve encountered. This is one of my favorite nude shades to date, especially on my lips that tend to push any color pink. This shade is absolutely gorgeous all over the face. I use this on the eyes, cheeks, and lips whenever I wear it, and I love how the tone shifts slightly and accordingly depending on the area of placement. On my eyes, it pulls the nude brown, making it another perfect one-wash color. It has a slight peachiness on the cheeks while maintaining a rosiness, making it a beautiful blush. Of course, on the lips, it is most like its warm dusty rose description and is the closest I’ve gotten to finding my perfect true nude lipstick. The formula is creamy and so comfortable to wear anywhere.
Westman Atelier Super Loaded Tinted Highlight in Peau de Soleil* ($75, .14oz | 4g, R 2020)
This remained another favorite this year for its singular gilded quality. I loved using this on the eyes when I wanted something a little more special. It’s also a stunning subtly glowy bronzer-blush and was perfect for any extra dark, dreary day or during the summertime when I seek a tad more glow. Thanks to its 18-month PAO, this baby is still going strong through early 2022. If the formula hasn’t gone off, I’ll most likely keep it until the end of time.
L I P S / N E U T R A L :
MOB Beauty M58 Cream Lipstick* ($27 w. compact, $22 refill, 3g | .10oz)
If you were a newsletter subscriber at the start of 2021, then you know that M58 is my ultimate my-lips-but-better. It’s the perfect tawny rose for me, and I wore it practically non-stop in the first half of 2021. The formula is ultra creamy and comfortable to wear long, I mean 10-hour workdays. It’s also easy to reapply and wears evenly.
MOB Beauty Cream Clay Blush in M70* ($25 refill, 3.2g | .11oz) as mentioned above.
Kjaer Weis Matte, Naturally Liquid Lip in Enthralling ($30 or $22 refill, .14floz | 4ml) as mentioned above.
L I P S / B R I G H T : Honorable Mention, MOB Beauty Matte Lipstick M67* ($22 refill, 3g | .10oz)
There’s only one lipstick, and it’s an honorable mention because I only got to wear it in December. But boy, did I wear it often. I decluttered all of my red lipsticks a year or two ago since I don’t reach for them, and more importantly, they were all expired (haha). MOB heard my yearning for a red lip as the holidays grew near, and I’m so glad they did. They launched their Matte Lipstick formula in one stunning red shade, and believe me when I say it’s stunning. If you follow me on Instagram, you’ve most likely seen stories of it. My pigmented lips slide every lip color towards pink, so often, when I use a blue-toned red, it shows up berry on me. This is one of those magical reds that still has enough blue to tone down any yellow in my teeth but enough saturated red to appear a true red on the lips. Plus, as with their cream lipstick formula, their new matte formula is as comfortable to wear. There’s also just something about it that makes me prefer it more than their cream?! And you know how much I love their cream formula. More thoughts to come, but my first and foremost thought is:
Please make more shades in this matte formula.
L I P S / D A R K : Rituel de Fille Forbidden Lipstick in Darkest Deeds ($24, .06oz | 1.8g, R 2019, 2020)
Alright, hear me out. I know that this is way past its PAO date, but there’s just nothing like it. There still hasn’t been any change in scent or texture, so I’m going to keep using it until the end of time. Thank you for understanding.
B R U S H / B R O W S :
Sephora Mini Angled Brush (discontinued, similar: SEPHORA COLLECTION PRO Eye Liner Brush #22)
I’ve had this brush forever (purchased during college, so it’s at least 14 years old by now, wow). It originally came in a mini travel brush set and is the only brush I’ve saved from it. The main reason I’ve kept and loved it all these years is that I haven’t found as thin an angled brush as this ever. Its delicate yet precisely angled synthetic hairs make it ideal for applying eyeliner. But its flexibility makes it my favorite brush for drawing in fine hairs with brow powder. In all these years, it hasn’t failed me yet.
B R U S H / P O W D E R : Chikuhodo Powder Brush (Discontinued?)
I’ve had this brush for years but never truly understood its talents until 2021. I got this in a Beautylish Lucky Bag from 2014 or 2015, and I’ve certainly used it but never loved it. This year, as my preferred SPF and base products changed, I found myself seeking a sturdier brush hair than my beloved Wayne Goss Brush 02 (the former champion of this category. I still love it dearly but reserve it for using over other powders rather than anything tacky such as liquids, oils, or cream). Because this was part of the Beautylish Lucky Bag, I never knew the name of the brush or even what brand. I should have looked it back then, but luckily, I reached out to Beautylish and am indebted to Emily for helping me figure it out! She confirmed it indeed is a Chikuhodo brush and as the printing on the side says, it is a “Powder Brush.” This brush can do anything with powders.
It applies setting powder effortlessly, is never cakey, and can withstand any tackier base…
(such as my SALT & STONE SPF 40 before it’s dried down). It also blends powder blushes and bronzers like a dream while making fast work of it thanks to its large and fluffy domed shape. I can’t seem to find this particular one anywhere, so I’m guessing it’s discontinued. But thankfully, Emily shared some similar ones: the Chikuhodo AF Series AF-3 Cheek and the Passion Series PS-1 Powder. To me, the shape is most similar to the AF-3 Cheek (domed), but the hairs look more like the Sohoku Goat of PS-1 Powder.
B R U S H / F A C E :
Westman Atelier Blender Brush* ($125, ~5.5” in length, R 2020)
This is still one of the softest brushes I own and is a joy to use with any formula (liquid, cream, balm, oil) in any finish (matte, satin, or shimmer). This brush brings out the best qualities of the WA Peau de Soleil and astounds me each time with how gently it applies powder products. It’s also a dream to use with complexion products, whether powder or tinted oil.
Bobbi Brown Full Coverage Face Brush ($52, ~5.29” in length, R 2020)
This was the first luxury brush I ever purchased (8 years strong), and it remains one of my all-time HG brushes.
It is so versatile and incredibly easy to use for anyone at any makeup level.
In last year’s index, it was my favorite brush for applying creams. While I continue to use it for that purpose, I especially loved it for applying powder foundation this year. That’s where the Full Coverage aspect truly shined. It works seamlessly with the Alima Pure Pressed Powder Foundation: taking it from a relatively sheer powder to building believable, blendable coverage with it.
B R U S H / E Y E S :
Rephr Brush 16* ($24, 21mm bristle length)
I use this daily to apply the MOB M6 (matte peachy beige) eyeshadow. While it’s described as a large tapered crease brush, it does quick work of applying any eyeshadow all over the lid, thanks to its large fluffy size. I can have both eyes done in 10 seconds flat. I’ve also used it to blend out concealer, and it does that just as well (though not as fast, haha).
Wayne Goss Brush 06 ($25, ~5.7” in length, R 2020)
This memorable repeat brush applies eyeshadow as quickly and seamlessly as the Rephr 16, except its smaller size and flatter shape make it more versatile. It blends any color like a dream but can also line the upper lashline or place shadows on the inner corners. This is one of those magical eyeshadow brushes that can do a complex eye look all on its own.
Rephr Brush 21* ($24 or $15 concept store, 11.5mm bristle length)
Another one of those eye brushes that can do it all. This flat shader works with everything: creams and powders, mattes and shimmers. It has enough give to work like a blender, but the bristles land in a fine, thin edge, making it great for applying eyeliner as well. I’ve also used it to apply cream concealers more precisely under the eye.
Wayne Goss Brush 07 ($17, ~5.5” in length, R 2020)
Another repeat, I still loved using this to apply eyeshadow along my upper lashline throughout 2021. This with the MOB M4 (matte espresso) eyeshadow was my go-to daily liner.
Some of my favorite shows pre-COVID are finally back with their sophomore seasons. Here are a few that are premiering in 2022’s first quarter.
The first two series were upcoming when I wrote this newsletter, haha!
‘Euphoria’ S2 (HBO, HBO Max) Premieres Jan. 9
‘Euphoria’ Season 1 premiered back in June 2019, if you can believe it. Now, two and a half years later, the acclaimed series returns. I didn’t have a Film + TV Index back in 2019, but I imagine this would at least be an Honorable Mention if I did. I have been finding myself missing it, if not for all the psychedelic camera work and visuals. I am excited to see the cast return, especially Alexa Demie.
‘The Righteous Gemstones’ S2 (HBO, HBO Max) Premieres Jan. 9
Danny McBride, how I’ve missed you. I’m thrilled that ‘The Righteous Gemstones’ is returning for another season because for a second there, I didn’t think it would. This season also has two very alluring guest stars: both the one and only, Eric André and Jason Schwartzman.
I’ve since watched the season premiere, and it is as hilarious as I remember (the series) and hoped it would be.
‘Pam & Tommy’ (Hulu) Premieres Feb. 2
The above still is what sold me. Believe it or not, those two are Lily James and Sebastian Stan. Uncanny. Mind-blown. Sign me up.
‘Winning Time: The Rise of the Lakers Dynasty’ (HBO, HBO Max) Premieres in March
The title says it all, but in case you need a bit more: Adam McKay executive produces and directs, and it stars John C. Reilly, Jason Clarke, and newcomers Quincy Isaiah (Magic Johnson) and Solomon Hughes (Kareem Abdul-Jabbar). With a slew of notable guests and returning appearances, this is sure to be a fun one.
Thank you so much for reading! If you’ve made it this far, you deserve a medal. What were some of your 2021 makeup favorites? Comment by clicking the comment icon or reply directly to this email to chat one-on-one!
As always, I hope you have a great start to your week. See you next Sunday! (Yes, there will be a bonus newsletter this month!)
Love this Maggie. I'm always super curious what beauty enthusiasts use up all year round. You make me want to try wearing more make-up now. My make-up routine has just been an Olio E Osso tinted balm so it's very bare minimum. I have stubborn straight lashes, love how gentle and featherlight KW Lengthening mascara is but still would not hold my damn lashes haha! I actually remembered it smelling like lavender for some reason - need to smell it again.