064. New SPFs, Baby Yoda Diet, and Gossip Girl
Testing two new mineral sunscreens, all I’ve been eating recently, what that means for my skin, and you know you love her, the return of XOXO.
Hi, I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a weekly newsletter on all things slow: beauty, fashion, living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure but thank you if you do.
If I have an Achilles heel category when it comes to shopping, it’s SPF. I am always on the hunt for the perfect one, and it’s generally a category that keeps improving significantly on the mineral sunscreen front. In the past few months, I picked up two that caught my eye.
SALT & STONE Lightweight Sheer Daily Sunscreen SPF 40 ($34, 2floz | 60ml)
The first is from a brand I’ve long had my eye on, offering one of the more extensive sunscreen ranges. Their lineup includes SPF 30 to SPF 50 protection, tinted and untinted, and various textures from lotion to cream to stick. I had always been curious about their SPF 50 version but feared it would be too thick. Then the moment they released their new “Lightweight Sheer Daily Sunscreen,” I knew that would be the one I would pick up.
Let’s talk outer appearances first. It was love at first sight when it came to the branding: minimal, key information-forward, legible type without the extraneous. The next factor that played into choosing it was its aluminum housing. It is the only sunscreen in their range to use it. I love items in aluminum as it is one of the easiest materials to recycle, and it can be done so infinitely. Plus, it’s fun to crumple up as you make your way through it.
Here are all the reasons I was sold:
SPF 40 over the usual SPF 30 (Yes, I realize the percentage difference in protection is minute, but mind over matter.)
22.75% Non-Nano Zinc Oxide (Wow, that’s a high percentage!)
“Lightweight Sheer” (Say no more.)
Oil-Free (I find most oil-free formulas provide the drier finish I desire. I have nothing against oils since that makes up most of my skincare, but those sunscreens tend to leave me overly dewy, and I dislike that feeling and look on the skin.)
2floz for $34 (Quite the steal in green beauty mineral sunscreen land.)
Let’s get something out of the way first. As long as sunscreen is zinc-based, without any tint to it, it will leave a white cast. The higher the percentage of zinc in the formula, the higher the white cast as well. I don’t expect any untinted mineral sunscreen to be white cast free. I’ve yet to find one, and I’ve tried dozens. All this is to say, if you’re using the proper amount, this one, too, will have a white cast. I use two fingers-length worth, and it definitely lightens my overall skin tone a bit. This effect would be drastically more apparent on darker skin tones.
Texture-wise, I would disagree with the “lightweight sheer” wording. The texture of this is much more like a thick cream. I was extremely nervous the first time I felt it because it is a thicker and drier formula. But when I went to blend it in, it worked beautifully atop skincare. On days where I’m in a rush, and I don’t let my skincare sink in first, it does pill slightly. So I tend to warm it up in my hands first, press an even layer all over the face, and gently blend. This works like a charm.
What I love most is the finish. The finish is where I imagine “lightweight” in the name came from. It dries down to a very comfortable satin matte, yet it isn’t drying!* This, to me, is what gives it a lightweight feel. I don’t know how they did it! Usually, if a sunscreen has this finish, my skin will feel a bit tight or sensitive at the end of the day, but not with this one. It also doesn’t break me out. Whenever I switch to a new sunscreen, my skin tends to pop up acne as it acclimates. This one seemed to sync with my skin from the get-go.
Editor’s Note: Because of its high zinc content and SPF 40 rating, I use roughly two fingers length worth or under (due to its thicker consistency), which provides a natural glow and satin finish. If I’ve used more, it does get more glowy, so I set it with powder. I can adjust the glow by also changing the amount of skincare underneath as well. The glow stays put and doesn’t slide around like other sunscreens, like the Saie Slip Tint.
Despite its drier finish, makeup applies beautifully over it. I have yet to test this with foundation or concealer, but all of my color items work well (blush, bronzer, eyeshadow, etc., cream or powder). Overall, I’ve been really enjoying this sunscreen!
*Update: this has become my HG sunscreen! I simply love it.
Luzern La Defense SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen ($70, 2floz | 60ml)
The second sunscreen is the Luzern La Defense SPF 30. I subscribe to the Ayla Beauty newsletter, and it’s one of my favorites. A few months back, they highlighted the newly reformulated and clearly beloved by the Ayla Team sunscreen. I was highly influenced by that newsletter, and as I was reaching the end of my Saie Slip Tint SPF, I pulled the trigger.
First, oof, the price. Compared to SALT & STONE, this one is double the price for the same amount. I was willing to overlook that because of the following:
It’s a favorite at Ayla Beauty (and I trust their suggestions)
Skincare-forward sunscreen with a focus on anti-aging
Natural fragrance using a custom essential oil blend
Mineral-based: Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide
Technically not the priciest of mineral sunscreens (The Josh Rosebrook SPF retails $80 for 1.7floz and $55 for 1floz. Comparatively, SALT & STONE is $17 per 1floz, and Luzern is $35 per 1floz.)
For all skin types and conditions
The two things I love most about this sunscreen are its spreadability and scent. This is one of the easiest sunscreens to spread evenly across the face. Texturally, it’s looser and a proper lotion compared to the SALT & STONE. The scent is one of the most pleasant I’ve come across in mineral sunscreen. It smells of sweet pears (a natural fruit sweetness, not candy sweetness). It has a very refreshing quality, making it a joy to use in the mornings. For those who dislike the scent of mineral sunscreen or sunscreen in general, this one is a dream.
However, spreadability should not be confused with blend-ability. While this glides oh-so-easily across the face, it gives a surprising amount of white cast. The percentage of mineral sunscreen is 15% zinc oxide and 3.57% titanium dioxide, a total of 18.57%. It’s less than the SALT & STONE, but it gives almost the same amount of white cast. Though, the quality of the white cast is slightly different. SALT & STONE appears like a true white cast in that the pigment appears white. Versus the Luzern, which holds more of a purple tint in turning the white cast a bit more ashy on my skin tone. (I also use two fingers-length worth of the Luzern.)
This sunscreen I have tested with foundation and concealer, and it works beautifully. It acts as a smoothing primer, so makeup sits wonderfully on top. And of course, once I have base coverage on, the white cast disappears.
I also always wear skincare beneath my sunscreen. I invest time and money into my skincare routines and like to make use of them. But when it comes to this sunscreen, I like it most without using any skincare before application. The Luzern sunscreen is very moisturizing, in my opinion, so it appears way too glowy for my liking atop my regular skincare. Applied on its own as both skincare and sunscreen, the glow is more subtle, and with a bit of powder, it provides a much more natural look.
As much as I like this one, I fear there’s something in it that my skin isn’t quite meshing with. I tend to get more acne spots when I use it. I’m not sure if it’s the essential oil fragrance blend or something else. I have been testing plenty of new items lately, so that could be contributing to it too. I’ll keep you posted once I’ve made a more concrete verdict!
I should also note that neither of these is my favorite for reapplying throughout the day. And that’s because I’ve found my favorite one for reapplication (coming soon)!
In case you missed last week’s newsletter, I’ve been out of the office the past week to do some much-needed healing. For the past three weeks, I’ve been dealing with Pericoronitis then had my wisdom tooth extracted. I’m also 33 and don’t have the highest pain tolerance. While I didn’t expect to spring right back up, I also wasn’t prepared for it to be quite the journey it turned out to be. In other words, I’m still healing.
Half of that is simply my body recuperating from trauma, and the other half is my diet. On the regular, I eat a lot. And my love of food spans several cuisines and health values (read “I also love fast food and Coca Cola”). So the fact that I’ve been on a liquid diet for 3 weeks now and counting is not helping my energy levels. Here’s what my new daily diet looks like:
Breakfast: Large smoothie (oat milk, carrot juice, Anima Mundi Liver Vitality, whey protein powder, Greek yogurt) and 8oz cold coffee (regular coffee cooled, not cold brew)
For reference, my usual smoothie is this one (YouTube how-to video with recipe). I also have plenty of thoughts on the Anima Mundi powder coming soon!
Lunch: Large bowl of chicken bone broth (Husband is the one who called it my “Baby Yoda Diet,” so the title of today’s newsletter is credited to him!) and 16oz of coconut water (this one is my favorite and what I’m currently drinking)
Dinner: Large bowl of mashed potatoes or mashed butternut squash (or both), with a bowl of tomato soup
The above contributes to a significant difference in my daily caloric intake. Still, I have to say health benefit-wise, it’s spectacular. The protein powder and coffee help provide the energy boost I need in the mornings, and any bone broth is fantastic for the body and soul.
But what I really want to talk about is how this has affected the current state of my skin. Because of all the mouth trauma, I haven’t been able to do much of my beloved self-care rituals. My skincare routine has changed, to say the least, and I haven’t done facial gua sha either. In fact, after my wisdom tooth extraction, I’ve stopped doing morning skincare. You read right. No skincare in the AM, which also means no SPF during the past week. (I have stepped into the backyard to soak up some Vitamin D, but not long enough for me to wear SPF.)
The main reason is that moving any sort of tissue near the extraction site is a no-go. There are still a bunch of sutures there, and mornings and evenings feel the worst. All of my SPFs are mineral, zinc-based. Which, if you use, you know it takes a bit of work to remove at the end of the day. My body couldn’t take any sort of disturbance near the area, so I opted to not wear SPF at all (no makeup either). Since applying skincare involves massaging into the skin, I decided to skip AM skincare and only use it in the PM.
I kid you not; my skin is looking great! Again, I know that’s half my diet, but the other half I genuinely believe is from just letting my skin detox in a way and renew. The now shorter evening skincare routine is still a joy. I’m still using the same items as I have been; it’s just not as thorough, meaning no double-cleansing since there’s no need and no extra moisturizing. (I also haven’t used any masks that require a heavier duty removal, only ones that can be rinsed off alone with water.) My skin soaks it up in the evening, and I wake to very normal, balanced skin! I haven’t had any acne (even during my period, which must be a first), no redness, and no dry patches. Oh, and I guess sleeping 11–12 hours a day also helps tremendously, haha!
The Baby Yoda diet has been a win on almost all fronts, except that I miss solid food. Such is the life of healing mouth injuries.
I’ve watched a few seasons of Gossip Girl a few years after it debuted on The CW network. It was entertaining, something to pass the time. And I’m happy that Blake Lively, Chase Crawford, Penn Badgley, and Sebastian Stan all found successful careers outside of it. So when I got my HBO Max newsletter informing me of the new iteration of Gossip Girl, I was intrigued. Well, it just premiered Thursday, and the series premiere was devilishly delectable.
The original Gossip Girl series always felt like it was set in the wrong time. The device throughout the series is much better suited to today’s technology and its fast-paced intake, and thus, more believable. For those who have seen the original version, it will be a fun nostalgic boost when you catch references in the new one.
While the premise remains the same, it’s the cast that’s the most refreshing part. True to Gen Z culture, it’s diverse, queer, straight-edge optional, and fashion-forward. The leading ensemble is excellently cast (from left to right):
Jordan Alexander as “Julien Calloway”
Eli Brown as “Obie”
Whitney Peak as “Zoya”
Emily Alyn Lind as “Audrey”
Thomas Doherty as “Max”
Evan Mock as “Aki”
Savannah Lee Smith as “Monet”
Zión Moreno as “Luna”
Tavi Gevinson as “Kate Keller”
Kristen Bell returns as our narrator
As for everything behind the camera, it’s very fitting for an HBO teen-centered series. 2021’s version is darker, richer, and more stylized than its doesn’t-hold-up predecessor. I read it’s supposed to be an extension of the former, but it feels dramatically different. Joshua Safran developed the original series returns as showrunner. He even said this would be a comedy, which it definitely is not. The former tone was lighter-hearted and comedic, while this one matches its new darker set decoration hues and lighting.
The pilot was entertaining but nowhere near great. But I’m willing to overlook the flaws since many HBO shows often have a slow start. I have a feeling it will get better as we go, but who knows. Of all the HBO teen-focused series, this one is the most PG, in case you’re wondering.
Thanks so much for reading! Some exciting things are coming up; I wish you could see the pile of boxes that have accumulated at the side of my desk. And I hope you’re well! Have you tried any new SPFs lately? Are you interested in the Gossip Girl reboot Remember, you can always leave a comment or reply to this email directly to chat one-on-one.
As always, I hope you have a great start to your week! See you next Sunday!
I'm sorry to hear about the difficult recovery! I hope by now, you feel so much better. I still need to extract two of my upper wisdom tooth and I'm dreading it. I have been delaying it for ages! I enjoyed reading about the Baby Yoda diet (catchy name!) and the ways that you coped with the recovery. I can imagine skincare is the last thing you want to do when you're going through this.
Yay for SPF! I agree that the choices are getting better in the mineral category (at least slowly but surely). I am slowly swinging back into my full skincare routine (postpartum has gotten me to neglect my skin for quite sometime) so I'm still going through my Saie Slip Tint because I have not been wearing SPF for months (oops..). I paused wearing it when I was pregnant when the weather became a lot more humid (and so did my face), I now enjoy wearing it again as my skin is now feeling bone-dry (indoor AC). There is a couple of sunscreens I'm hoping to try next, I'm excited!
Oh and what I didn't know about this new gossip girl and on HBO what. How's the story developing since the last time you wrote about it?
Hi Maggie. Thank you, as always, for your newsletter. I'm sorry you're still recovering from your surgery trauma. It sounds like your body took quite the hit. The Baby Yoda Diet sounds comforting and nourishing. I kind of want to try it. My sunscreen has been back and forth between Honua Malu and Suntegrity 5-In-1 in Fair, which I love for its dewiness. I like the Malu, though I wish it were less scented with Jasmine. It's a bit too strong for me. I've noticed the Malu pilling, which is why I return to the Suntegrity, that and its slight tint. I'm older than you, so my skin is past breakouts from too much oil, so dewy works for me. Isn't the Ayla newsletter wonderful? Ayla and Dara and their product line are enriching. Loved today's piece on de Mamiel with a link to how to combat stress. (Just breathe…) My skin also benefits from being left alone, which is what I do regularly. I don't use makeup most of the time, and I often wash my face in the evening only, and do not apply sunscreen unless I'm going outside. From a fellow Coca-Cola lover to you: Get well soon. xo.