107. Beauty 2023 Index: Pt. 2 Makeup

The Year’s Best Makeup

Jan 14, 2024

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Today, we’re moving right along in the Tender Forms 2023 Index with Most Memorable Makeup. Still following last year’s format: in order of application, with a bonus at the end of my most used brushes. Any repeats from previous years will read “R” followed by the year it’s a repeat of. *Links within paragraphs lead to previous newsletters with fuller reviews.

Below is a quick glance at what’s included:

2023 Index: Makeup

FOUNDATION + CONCEALER / POWDER / BROWS / BRONZER + CONTOUR / BLUSH / EYELINER / MASCARA / MULTI-USE / BRUSHES

F O U N D A T I O N + C O N C E A L E R

Alima Pure Pressed Foundation with Rosehip Antioxidant Complex in Sesame ($26 refill, .31oz | 9g, R 2021, 2022)

Gressa Essentialist Corrective Concealer in Macaron and Madeline ($50 ea., .10oz/3ml)

Rituel de Fille 3 Drop Weightless Serum Foundation in #105($42, 1floz / 30ml)

MOB Beauty Blurring Ceramide Cream Foundation in Neutral 0 ($26, 3.5g | .12oz)

While four favorites seem excessive, I feel they’re worth sharing as they all serve different purposes depending on your mood and needs. The first, which is no surprise to anyone, fulfills the powder foundation and concealer category. I’ve written at length about my love for the Alima Pure Pressed Foundation; it’s an underrated, under-shared gem.

New this year was the highly anticipated (for years) Gressa Essentialist Corrective Concealer. I purchased this at its previous price of $34. As you can see, it’s jumped quite a bit. And I find it challenging to pull the trigger on the new price tag, but it is a beautiful formula. However, the quality and usability seem to vary between shades. I ordered Madeline and found it slightly too dark. When I reached out asking if it was possible to exchange it for Macaron (the lightest shade), they were kind enough to let me keep Madeline as well, and I’m so glad they did.

Macaron is the better shade match by far, but there’s a bit of inconsistency with either the packaging or the formula between shades or both. If you’ve ever tried their Minimalist Foundation, the texture of the Essentialist is lighter, silkier, and more emollient, which I prefer. But every time I attempt to use Macaron, it’s a headache. The concealer is housed in a click pen, and no matter how long I shake it, I get perhaps 70% oil and 30% pigment with separation naturally. But when I use Madeline, there’s no separation; the mixture has a perfect velvety consistency, and the pigment is sound. You can achieve anywhere from light to medium coverage (it won’t cover as much as the Minimalist Foundation).

I prefer the slim packaging and pen mechanism when it works. I can’t tell if I just got a dud when it came to Macaron or if there truly is a difference between shades and how they dispense. And at $50, it frightens me to order another and find the same issues. If all of them were mixed, performed, and dispensed as seamlessly as Madeline, I’d be happy to purchase another because when it works, it’s stunning. It’s easy to blend, melts into the skin, and lasts through the day when powdered. I should note that I always powder with this; if not, it tends to slip around on me and gets very shiny as the day goes on. It is definitely a dewy finish on its own. Depending on how much powder I use, I can get anywhere from a slightly glowy to a satin-matte finish. It won’t ever be fully matte unless I pack on powder.

If you are looking for something with higher coverage and in another liquid formula, then Rituel de Fille’s 3 Drop Foundation will surprise you time and time again. Wow, does this pack a punch in the coverage category. One drop is enough to conceal 75% of my face with full coverage; it is absolutely more concealer than foundation. The finish is a satin to satin matte, depending on your skincare and SPF. I feel most won’t need to powder with this, but I still do because I love powder. I only ever need a very light dusting with this. Because of the fuller coverage, it’s always quite blurring and is very comfortable to wear. I haven’t noticed any specific skin benefits despite the formula’s addition of skincare in it.

I also mix a drop of this in with SPF for days when I’m feeling lazy to go in more strategically with coverage. It works great. And the shade is perhaps one of the best things about it. Shade #105 is described as a “very fair shade for neutral to olive undertones,” and I couldn’t agree more. They truly nailed the pale olive shade. This is the best shade match for me, which adds to the fantastic experience. The only thing I don’t love about it is the packaging. The plastic bottle is very bulky, and the sticker on the bottom falls off from time to time. However, the twist cap does lock with a very secure and satisfying click. And I can’t really complain since it’s the best bang for your buck. You get a full ounce for $42. And considering how little you need, this bottle might just last you forever.

Last but not least is the MOB Cream Foundation. I had mixed feelings when I first used this, but I finally found a way to make it work for me, and now I love it. This has as much coverage as the RdF but in a cream form. As with all things MOB, you can put it in their refillable palette or keep it in its biodegradable package (I love that they launched that this year, too). This wins for blurring by hundreds of miles out of all the complexion products. I’ve never used a foundation or concealer that blurs as beautifully as this! The only downside is that you need to have a really moisturized base for this not to cling or accentuate dry patches. The Zoca Lotion SPF allows me to use this with great ease and I can sheer it for a lighter application now (this was my main qualm when I first tried it) or build to full coverage.

Like the RdF, you don’t need to powder its satin finish, but I like to because it reflects light so well that it can appear a little too shiny for my liking under the eyes. Now that I’ve found the skincare and SPF combo that works with this, I adore it. I was sent Neutral and Gold 20, which are a bit too dark. I ordered a few of their foundation samples (only $1 each!) and found Neutral 0 is best for me. When I used up some of my current complexion products, you can guarantee I’ll be purchasing one this year!

P O W D E R

Westman Atelier Vital Pressed Skincare Powder in Crème ($75, .17oz | 5g, R 2022)

Manasi 7 Silk Finish Powder ($49.50, .32oz | 9g)

The Westman Atelier Powder should come as no surprise. It’s the best pressed blurring powder there is. I used it well past its 12-month PAO, but at some point, I just got a little paranoid that I had pushed its limits. I hit pan long ago and probably used up about 80% of the powder. The packaging is stunning, as with most of Westman Atelier’s products, but I have one major gripe: they still don’t sell refills. The pressed powder was launched as their first refillable item, yet almost a year later, refills still aren’t offered. They even started offering refills of the lip suedes before the powder. For that reason, I won’t be purchasing another until the refills come out.

You might have noted that I said the WA powder is the best pressed blurring powder, and that’s because the Manasi 7 Powder rivals its blurring capabilities. The Manasi 7 is a loose powder, and my, oh my, I fell fast and hard for this one. I’ve tried some fine powders before, but this one has to be the finest, and that makes it extremely versatile and user-friendly. You can’t overdo it; it layers seamlessly over any texture or item, setting it in place, and it’s never drying. It’s also one of those magical items that enhances the performance of other items in your makeup drawer. This really sealed the deal with the Gressa Concealer for me. The combo is glorious.

But the packaging leaves a bit to be desired. There’s no cover for the sifter, so you have to be careful about handling and storing it. All components are plastic and don’t feel the highest quality, but the overall minimalist design helps it. I desperately wish they would make a pressed version of this, but for now, I am more than pleased by this fantastic powder.

B R O W S

Amaterasu Brow & Eye Pen in Ash ($24, .6ml | .02floz)

Westman Atelier Bonne Brow Defining Pencil in Slate ($38, .01oz | .34g, R 2022)

I used the Westman Atelier Brow Pencil for the first half of the year. It’s still great. Excellent color, longevity, and ease of use. I can’t recommend this one enough if you’re looking for a brow pencil. The one thing that has come to bother me is its bulkier packaging. Something about the component falls short compared to the rest of the line’s phenomenal packaging.

For the second half of the year, I used the Amaterasu Brow & Eye Pen. Believe it or not, this is the first brow pen I’ve ever used, and I understand why everyone loves them now. Wow, does this make things so simple. I don’t even brush my brow hairs; I just go in with the pen and fill in the outer third of my brows. It lasts all day, doesn’t budge, and even in the rain, it won’t smudge! It’s also easy to remove (any cleanser will do, no matter the texture: oil, gel, or balm). The color ash is also perfection: a true, cool-tone grey.

And it gets better. This is also the easiest eyeliner I’ve ever used. I’m not the best with eyeliner, but the color and brush tip turn even me into a pro. Because it’s a light grey, it’s much more forgiving and looks natural. It’s perfect for my everyday makeup, and I love a good two-in-one product. The pen has lasted seven months and counting!

B R O N Z E R + C O N T O U R

MOB Beauty Bronzer M36 ($25 refill, 4g | .14oz, R 2021, 2022)

NOTO Multi-Bene Stick in Fluxus$26, .09oz | 2.6ml)

MOB Beauty Cream Clay Eyeshadow M111 ($18 refill, 1.8g | .06oz)

Third year running for the MOB Beauty Bronzer M36! I’ve yet to come across another bronzer that is as nuanced as this one for fair skin. This is easily the best powder bronzer anywhere, ever.

As for cream bronzer, it has to be NOTO Fluxus. Boy, do I love this product. The color is more red-toned and not something I would usually go for, but everything about it is fantastic. From its sleek, compact packaging to its creamy yet sets (a solid satin or satin-matte) formula to the incredible color and multi-use purpose. This one is beauty anywhere on the face and neck (eyes, cheeks, mouth, chin, etc.). The only downside is I wish it had a longer expiration date. The scent does turn soon after hitting its 6-month PAO. Because I’m fair, I didn’t need to use it as much, but if I used it more daily, I’m confident I could use it up within its PAO. This will definitely be a repurchase in 2023.

A surprise contour of 2023 was M111 from Jessica Haze’s Spring Goth collection with MOB Beauty. This is a cream clay eyeshadow described as “a lavender stone.” When looking at the swatch on the website, it indeed appears to be that exact description. However, used sparingly, it melds with my natural skin tone and transforms into a perfect contour shade. I’ve heard others use the M115 taupe as a contour, too, and I’m sure that’d be another lovely one. But thus far, I’m more than happy with M111 fulfilling the contour slot. Plus, thanks to the always excellent cream clay formulas, it’s a matte finish and stays all day.

B L U S H

MOB Beauty Cream Clay Blush M91 ($25 refill, 3.2g | .11oz, R 2022)

MOB’s Cream Clay Blush in M91 was the only item I used solely as blush. I hit pan a long time ago, and this was one of my most loved blushes. I used up probably 90% and a month after its PAO before I finally felt it was time to part with it. The Cream Clay formula is easily my favorite formula from MOB and feels singular within the beauty market. A truly unique and impeccable experience each and every time I use it.

E Y E L I N E R

Manasi 7 Eye Glow Colour in Jardin ($38, 5g | .17oz)

Amaterasu Brow & Eye Pen in Ash ($24, .6ml | .02floz)

Yes! I’ve changed this category from Eyeshadow to Eyeliner because I didn’t use much or any eyeshadow for the majority of the year, but I did use eyeliner (as always). Manasi 7’s cream eyeshadow in Jardin was a favorite discovery of 2023, and I don’t see myself finding anything better anytime soon. The color is perfection. In the pot, it looks like a deep, cool, chocolatey brown with a bronze-gold shimmer. But on my eyes, it turns even cooler which was a welcome surprise to me (most colors turn warmer on my eyes)! I’ll pick some up on my NOTO Duo brush using the detail end and apply anywhere from a sheer to a thicker, darker line along my upper lashline. It’s stunning.

Even after months, you’d think I might get used to the color or even be bored of it, but that’s certainly not the case when each time feels fresh and exciting to me. That’s how spectacular and sensational the color is. Not to mention, it lasts all day with a barely there dusting of the Manasi 7 powder, and even around the edges where it wears away slightly, it does so in a subtle manner while still looking good.

I’ve built it up as an actual eyeshadow before, and the color is still magnificent, to be expected. It becomes more chocolatey as it builds, whereas it can pull more grey when used as an eyeliner.

And as mentioned above, the Amaterasu pen was another eyeliner favorite. It’s a light grey on the eyes, and you can build it up slightly if you go over more than once, but I like a natural, barely there line, so at most, twice is good enough for me. Believe it or not, it doesn’t smudge and stays put. Even after a 10-hour workday and through a workout. Impressive, to say the least.

M A S C A R A

Kjaer Weis Lengthening Mascara ($30 or $24 refill, .19oz | 5.4g, R 2021, 2022)

Similar to last year, I didn’t really use mascara in 2023. However, when I did, it was the Kjaer Weis Lengthening Mascara. But I must say, I have a strong suspicion that 2024 will be the year I stop using mascara forever. It’s just not for me.

M U L T I - U S E

Manasi 7 All Over Colour in Kuranberi ($45, 5g | .17oz)

Manasi 7 All Over Colour in Sisserou ($45, 5g | .17oz)

NOTO Multi-Bene Stick in Touch ($26, .09oz | 2.6ml)

Perhaps my favorite new discoveries of 2023 occupy this category. Long-time subscribers know how much I adore a multi-use item and brands like Manasi 7 and NOTO delivered! I’ve used Manasi 7’s All Over Colours before but didn’t quite love them, mainly because the sweet scent was too strong for my nose. I’m not sure what changed, but I’m nowhere near as bothered by it now, and I think the colors I went for this time around also suit me better. The first is Kuranberi, a cool-toned burgundy red. It looks super deep in the pot, and you can build it up for sure, but it won’t ever get as deep as it looks in the pot (in case you’re looking for that in particular). Instead, it’s incredibly versatile in its range of depth and, therefore, the number of looks you can achieve with it.

When mixed with a fair complexion product, this can deliver a similar cool-tone pink as MOB’s M91 Cream Clay Blush. On its own, it is deeper but provides a radiant and natural flush to the skin. Think anywhere from a blustery winter cheek to a flushed cherry. It’s also my preferred day-to-day lip color. It packs enough punch to liven the face with color, but it’s not so bold where it’s jarring. Of course, it builds nicely to provide a deeper and bolder lip as well. And it’s a pretty pink when used ever so lightly on the eyes.

Sisserou, on the other hand, is the perfect neutral counterpart to the poppy Kuranberi. I had high, high hopes for Sisserou, and it did not disappoint. This is perhaps one of my favorite shades I’ve ever encountered. It’s nearly the perfect middle ground between my two MOB favorites: M36 Bronzer and M111 Cream Clay Eyeshadow. It has more brown than M111’s lavender stone and more depth than the softer, sheerer M36. And that perhaps makes it the ultimate multi-use item, becoming eyeshadow, blush, bronzer, contour, and lip contour all in one.

Both of these are also some of the more matte versions within the All Over Colours, making it my preference. A pet peeve is that not all of the shades have the same texture and finish; just something to keep in mind. Also, the shades are so nuanced that I would highly recommend trying samples before purchasing. Often, depending on how these colors react with your skin tone, it might be severely different from the shade descriptions. That also means that not all of these are true all-over colors. Depending on their pigment payoff and color, they might not be as suitable on a specific area (not as good on the lips or eyes).

Last but not least is NOTO’s Multi-Bene Stick in Touch. (Fluxus should also be counted within this category). While both are named “Multi-Bene Stick,” the formulas themselves are different. Fluxus is more matte for longevity and makes it suitable for use all over the face with a subtle lavender scent. Any other color Multi-Bene Stick is better suited for cheeks and lips as they’re more emollient and contain peppermint essential oil, which may cause irritation for super sensitive eyes. That said, I use Touch on eyes, cheeks, and lips and it’s fabulous everywhere. I use a sheer swipe, and it doesn’t bother my sensitive eyes. Touch is a warm pink, which isn’t usually what I gravitate towards, but it does give my complexion a healthy brightness and warmth I crave during the colder months. Of course, it looks equally lovely in the warmer months. The Multi-Bene Sticks are the definition of user-friendly, and again; I love the slim, chic packaging. But keep in mind, like Fluxus, this, too, goes off once it hits its 6-month PAO.

B R U S H / P O W D E R

Westman Atelier Powder Brush ($85, ~5.5” handle length, R 2022)

This is an excellent powder brush for any type of powder: setting, finishing, and color. Westman Atelier brushes are some of the softest brushes you’ll ever use, and they’re synthetic!

B R U S H / F A C E

Westman Atelier Blender Brush ($125, ~5.5” handle length, R 2020, 2021, 2022)

Bobbi Brown Full Coverage Face Brush ($52, ~5.29” in length, R 2020, 2021, 2022)

Another year running for both of these (four years)! I love the WA Blender Brush for any color product on the cheeks and around the face (bronzer, blush, contour), and it works great for both powder and cream formulas. The Bobbi Brown Full Coverage Brush is a cult classic for a reason. It remains one of the very best dense synthetic brushes out there. And don’t let the name fool you; it works just as great for sheering and blending out products as it does for providing full coverage. I’ve had mine for just under a decade, and it still looks brand new after countless washes over the years.

B R U S H / M U L T I - U S E

Westman Atelier Baby Blender Brush ($64, ~4.75” handle length)

Gressa Mini Air Focus Multi-Use Brush($26, ~3.75” handle length)

NOTO Duo-Brush ($24, ~4” handle length)

Chanel Retractable Dual-Tip Eyeshadow Brush N°200 ($42, ~5” in length)

I use both the Westman Atelier and Gressa brushes for the exact same purposes. The shape of both brushes is very similar: petite, domed heads for blending color or coverage in smaller, targeted areas. Both are excellent for that purpose, whether blending concealer under the eyes, around the nose, or for larger swaths of surface area such as applying bronzer, blush, or contour. The main difference is in the quality and feel of the bristles. Westman Atelier is much softer and looser-packed than the Gressa. Because Gressa is more dense, it probably has the edge in the coverage category. But overall build and feel of the brush goes to Westman Atelier. Of course, there’s a big price difference, so I leave that choice up to you. Both are fantastic.

The other brush in this category has quickly become my favorite brush. Full stop. Yes, you read that right. And if you’re a long-time subscriber, you could consider these bold, fighting words. As someone who loves to use brushes and prefers them to any other application method, I can say it is just that good. I’m even confident enough to say that if I had to own only one brush, this would be it. You don’t need another brush as this ticks all the boxes:

Covered dual-tip (larger end has a cap, the other end is retractable and covered for travel)
The fluffy, larger brush end has a slider mechanism to help you change the density of the brush head. Slid all the way down provides a looser-packed brush head for applying powder or sheer layers and blending. Slid almost all the way up creates a densely-packed brush head for applying coverage and blending out thicker cream products.
The detail brush end is a slightly rounded flat brush perfect as both a lip brush and for use around the eyes. I use it to apply my daily eyeliner. It’s also great for spot concealing and applying lip color.
Works with any texture: cream, liquid, oil, balm, powder, gel.
The brush component feels sturdy with just the right amount of weight. It feels luxurious but isn’t super heavy, and the caps and retractable mechanism make it perfect for travel.

I can’t say enough good things about this brush. This can be your one and only, forever. It’s so good that I bought another just so I can always have one to use (in case I’m washing and drying the other), and I have never purchased two of the same brush.

My long-time dual Chanel eyeshadow brush was a rediscovery this year, and it’s a classic. It has both a blender and shader end for all eye color needs. However, since I didn’t use much eyeshadow this year, I found another wonderful use for it.

Before I purchased my second NOTO Brush, I started using the blender side for applying and blending concealer, and wow! It works amazingly for that purpose, no matter the formula type. This time around, I also noticed that this brush is longer and heavier than most I own, adding to the luxury feel. Catch it here way back when in my very first YouTube video.

Thanks so much for reading! Any new makeup discoveries in 2023? I’d love to know what your favorites were! Please leave a comment or reply to this email to chat one-on-one.

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