079. Beauty 2021 Index: Pt. 1 Skincare
Welcoming back the month of bests and kittens!
Hi, I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a weekly newsletter on all things slow: beauty, fashion, living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure but thank you if you do.
Hello, you. First, I hope you had a wonderful holiday season! Second, Happy New Year! Can you believe that 2021 flew by and it’s now 2022? Third, I’m so excited it’s January because as usual, that means it’s time for the Tender Forms Index, celebrating the best of the best from 2021. This year, I’m splitting it up between 3 newsletters: Beauty Part 1 (Skincare), Beauty Part 2 (Makeup), and Film + TV. Today, we’re kicking things off with the most memorable Skincare! I’m sticking to the same format as previous years: listing in order of application. Any that are repeats from previous years will read “R” followed by the year it’s a repeat of! *Links within paragraphs lead to previous newsletters with their full reviews.
AM Skincare
T O N E R :
Earthwise Beauty Three Roses* ($74, 100ml | 3.4floz)
Heart of Gold Sweet Clover + Pinyon Hydrolat* ($30, 50ml | 1.7floz)
Honorable Mention: evanhealy Lemon Thyme HydroSoul* ($29.95, 4floz | 120ml) and LESSE Regeneration Mist ($45, $40 subscription, 60ml | 2floz)
What can I say? It’s been an excellent year of mists. 2021 yielded new mist discoveries that absolutely thrilled me. If you’re a long-time subscriber, then you already know that I rotate through mists frequently and aren’t held down by any one particular brand. Like cleansers, it’s a category I empty often! Of course, this year’s number one mist has to be the Earthwise Beauty Three Roses. I finished the full 100ml size and already have a repurchase carefully tucked away. I loved this one because it’s perfect for when my skin seeks a bit more than a hydrosol. It’s got a fabulous ingredient list of all the things my skin loves, plus the scent is divine.
A close second would be the Heart of Gold Sweet Clover + Pinyon Hydrolat. As many of you might know, Ally (founder, creator) closed the chapter that is Heart of Gold earlier this year. I’ll be speaking more about it soon, but for now, let us bask in the delightful memories of her stunning work. Her seasonal limited editions were always favorites in the mist category. This was my first time trying Sweet Cover + Pinyon and it did not disappoint. The scent is the epitome of innocent, joyful childhood summers. My skin and soul drank it up.
Honorable mentions must be paid to both the evanhealy Lemon Thyme HydroSoul, another summertime favorite (though oily skin types would enjoy this year-round), and the LESSE Regeneration Mist with its wonderful highlight ingredients of Tremella and Gotu Kola (two personal favorites). Sometimes I’ll catch its crisp, citrusy scent out of nowhere. I miss it.
S E R U M : Earthwise Beauty Ambrosia do Cerrado Liquid Moisturizer ($70, 50ml | 1.7floz)
This is one of my favorite discoveries this year as it has become a holy grail (HG) emulsion favorite. Ambrosia do Cerrado’s decadent formula sinks in fast and delivers unparalleled moisture, protection, and brightening properties all at once! The hue and scent uplift both spirit and skin. Both my skin and I don’t mind essential oils, but I do like to balance the amount I use throughout my skincare routine. I love that this one is essential oil-free to help me strike that balance. If I wasn’t in the process of trying out other serums, I would use this one exclusively, year-round.
O I L : Earthwise Beauty Rosa ($48, 30ml | 1floz)
Another HG. What can’t this oil do? Rosa combined with Ambrosia do Cerrado makes my dream brightening concoction. Gentle enough for my reactive skin yet extremely effective. I’ve gone through a sample from a friend (thanks, Jess, for introducing me to this beaut), a full-size, an SOS deluxe sample (Jess to the rescue again!), and have another full-size waiting. Rosa is also what I like to call an “equalizer.” I can mix it with anything and it will only enhance a formula. I don’t ever want to be without this.
E Y E O I L : Earthwise Beauty Passion Eye Serum ($36, 5ml | .17floz) Currently on sale for all sizes!
We’re only at AM skincare and already there are so many things I can’t live without! The Earthwise Beauty Passion Eye Serum is another one I hold onto dearly. It’s my HG eye oil. Silky, luxurious, and somehow perfect for both AM and PM. It’s light enough and does a beautiful job of priming the under eyes for SPF and makeup. Yet it’s cushiony and moisturizing enough for evening use; always resulting in soft, plump under eyes in the morning. I’ve gone through a deluxe sample, the smaller size, and I’m currently using the largest size they offer (.5floz). It’s currently on sale should you be looking for an eye oil! You can also stack my champion (affiliate) code “tenderforms,” which gives 10% off any order, any time.
L I P B A L M : URB APOTHECARY Basil Mint Lip Balm ($11, .35oz)
In 2021, I finally found my perfect lip balm. I’d been following URB APOTHECARY for a while on Instagram, and when they switched their lip balm packaging to biodegradable tubes, I knew it was time! As someone with super dehydrated lips but also hates feeling texture, it can be tough to find one that nourishes deeply enough without feeling uncomfortable on the lips. I tend to go for lighter ones that have more slip, so it came as a surprise when I loved the luxuriously thicker consistency of the Basil Mint Lip Balm. I apply this liberally day and night and my lips have never looked and felt better. Don’t let its cute size fool you either. While shorter and more stout, it contains more than double the amount you usually find in lip balms!
S P F : SALT & STONE Lightweight Sheer Daily Sunscreen SPF 40 ($34, 2floz | 60ml)
Ah, sunscreen. What a notoriously troublesome item that’s pertinent in every routine, yet impossible to find the one. Well, I think I’ve found mine. In 2021, I fell head over heels for the SALT & STONE Lightweight Sheer Daily Sunscreen SPF 40 (wow, that’s a long name). It wasn’t love at first sight, but the more I used it, the more I understood why it was amazing and how it did everything it claims. This is the closest to sheer mineral sunscreen I’ve ever tried. It makes my skin glow without looking or feeling greasy, it’s untinted so I can wear it alone or under makeup, and it makes my skin look…flawless, for lack of a better word. Fan of glass skin? Layered atop your skincare, it delivers just that. It’s incredibly comfortable to wear, moves with you, yet stays so it doesn’t slip around. It applies thick but when worked into the skin, it dries down to a satin finish, plus it doubles as an amazing makeup primer. Sunscreen can be a mindset, and this makes me think and feel protected. The extra jump from SPF 30 to SPF 40 helps too. ::wink:: Did I mention it’s housed in an aluminum tube? Meaning it’s endlessly recyclable? What’s not to love?!
PM Skincare
1 S T C L E A N S E :
Monastery Sage Cleansing Oil ($48, 2.03oz | 60ml)
Earthwise Beauty Paloma of the High Desert* ($90, 100ml | 3.4floz)
Honorable Mention: Sunny Ruckus Green Flash Oil Cleanser* ($25, 2.4floz)
My favorite skincare category! I can’t seem to say no when it comes to cleansers. I love trying new ones and my excuse is, well, I go through them quickly (haha)! 2021 was a year of new favorites.
First up is the Monastery Sage Cleansing Oil. I don’t know why I don’t hear more about Monastery’s cleansers as Athena (founder, creator) makes some of the most beautiful ones out there. The Rose Cleansing Oil is another favorite that I’ve been missing a lot lately, so I’ll definitely be picking up another bottle this year. But let’s talk about the glorious clarifying quality of Sage. Don’t let the term “clarifying” scare you. While it is a potent treatment cleanser, it is still gentle (though it may be too strong for super sensitive skin). As someone who’s acne-prone, I love to use this cleanser twice a week or whenever my skin flares up from stress. It has an uncanny ability to calm everything down and promote healing. The scent also plays a wonderful role in this: herbal, purifying, spiritual. Did I mention it has a 24-month PAO? Unheard of in green beauty, yet sought after by myself and my wallet.
The second is the Earthwise Beauty Paloma of the High Desert. Another silky, luxurious cleansing oil. This one has a scent unlike any I’ve encountered (in the best way). It removes grime, SPF, and makeup with ease and pairs exceptionally well with my favorite second cleanse (coming up). While it may seem pricey, its luxurious cleansing experience, as well as its multitasking capabilities, makes it worth it. I’ve used it for facial cleansing, body oil, facial oil, and hair oil! All instances are a delight, but aside from using it for facial cleansing, I especially enjoyed it as both a hair and body oil.
Honorable mention goes to the Sunny Ruckus Green Flash Oil Cleanser. (I am just now realizing that all my favorite first cleanses this year have been non-rinse, remove-with-washcloth cleansers!) We all know and love Marie (of Rie Bags on YT and IG), and this year she launched her own brand Sunny Ruckus! The reason I’ve placed this as an honorable mention is that the formula has changed from the one I reviewed (and I haven’t had a chance to try the new one yet). In an effort to make it more accessible and affordable, the Green Flash has been updated! However, a quick look through the ingredients assures me that it will perform very similarly. One can still look forward to its luscious, cushiony bounce, and flash-like ease when it comes to removing all SPF and makeup.
2 N D C L E A N S E : Earthwise Beauty Marshmallow Face Cleanser* ($64, 100ml | 3.4floz)
Now it all makes sense. The reason all my first cleanse favorites were non-rinse versions is because I’ve found my perfect second cleanse! The Earthwise Beauty Marshmallow Face Cleanser is simply a joy to use. I’ve never come across a cleanser that foams as substantially soft as this without drying out the skin! It lives up to its marshmallow name! For any heavier first cleanse, it will remove any residue without stripping the skin. It’s equally as beautiful on its own for bare-faced days. Morning cleanse lovers will also surely enjoy this, but for now, I reserve it purely as a second cleanse and look forward to using it every evening.
M I S T : same as AM Earthwise Beauty Three Roses* ($74, 100ml | 3.4floz)
S E R U M : same as AM Earthwise Beauty Ambrosia do Cerrado Liquid Moisturizer ($70, 50ml | 1.7floz)
O I L : same as AM Earthwise Beauty Rosa ($48, 30ml | 1floz)
B A L M : pAra botanica Chaya Beauty Balm ($52, 1oz | 30ml, R 2019, 2020)
Three years running! Chaya will always be a favorite. I don’t usually enjoy balm textures, but the fact of the matter is, my easily dehydrated skin needs them! Chaya provides nourishment, protection, and is an excellent multitasker. I’ve used it as a cleansing balm (bliss) when I want to treat myself, mixed into masks, as an ointment for cuts or just picked skin, etc. All beautiful, plus, I particularly enjoy the wider glass container Christy (founder, creator) updated to!
Treatments + Tools
C L A R I F Y I N G : Earthwise Beauty Catharsis Face Mask* ($50, 24g | .8oz)
My most used and loved mask of 2021 was undoubtedly Catharsis. I can’t believe I haven’t written about it in depth yet as it’s such an integral part of my skincare routine. For many Tender Forms Pamper Sundays of this year, Catharsis was my ride or die. Don’t let my “clarifying” category scare you away. This powder mask is hydrating, calming, purifying, healing, and cooling. It’s gentle enough that I can use it weekly to keep my skin in good health but effective that when my skin is extra inflamed or breaking out, I can count on it to heal and reset the skin.
H Y D R A T I N G : pAra botanica Soma Repair Mask* ($56, 1.7oz | 50ml, R 2019, 2020)
Another three-peat item! pAra’s Soma is my great powder mask “equalizer.” I only mask once a week so if I were forced to choose between a hydrating mask versus a clarifying mask, I will always go for the clarifying. Luckily, I don’t have to choose between the two thanks to Soma. Clarifying powder masks can be tricky. Usually, there is some type of clay, and the only way to keep the clays active is for them to remain wet. Soma not only gives a tremendous boost on the hydration front but also keeps the mask malleable, meaning the powder mask can continue doing its job without drying out. Plus, a little goes a long way. Usually, I’ll do 3/4 teaspoon of a powder mask mixed with 1/4 teaspoon of Soma. So a jar of Soma lasts an entire year for me! Speaking of, it’s time to repurchase this favorite.
D O - I T - A L L :
Naturallogic Luna Biofermented Red Wine Mask* ($78, 2floz | 60ml, R 2020)
Both of these masks were multitasking favorites of 2021 with their ease of use keeping them regulars in rotation. This is my first full size of Naturallogic’s Luna and I love every scoop of it. Rich, emollient, but stays put, this is the most comfortable mask to wear if you want to continue with your day. The scent is simply intoxicating: red wine, chocolate, with a berry medley, bathed in the wondrous hue of adzuki bean. This was my go-to whenever my dull skin needed a jump start! It provides deep hydration and immediate glowy skin. Plus, it’s so comfortable to wear that I often forget it’s on until I catch myself in the mirror!
YINA Anti-Pollution Mask* ($65, 50ml | 1.6floz)
For when I’m too lazy to mix powder or custom masks, YINA’s Anti-Pollution Mask will do it all. It has the purifying qualities I often look for during my weekly mask session, while brightening, firming, and soothing the skin. Both the surprising squid ink texture and hue also add a bit of fun each time I use it! Equally delightful is its Hinoki scent: a grounding, spiritual experience to aid in ultimate relaxation as it delivers a healthy dose of antioxidants. This one is beautiful year-round whereas I prefer Naturallogic’s Luna in the colder months.
F A C I A L S T E A M : Earthwise Beauty Selene Facial Steam* ($48, 57g | 2oz)
2021 was the year I discovered the wonders of the at-home facial steam. I must admit, I am not a steam person: full-body or face. During facial treatments, I often find it difficult to breathe through if the steam is too strong. So color me shocked when I tried the EWB Selene Facial Steam and realized: 1. I could breathe despite being so close to the steam, and 2. that my easily dehydrated and congested skin adored it. I don’t quite understand how it does it, but this stuff is good. A 30-minute facial steam always clears congestion and any dryness is immediately gone and stays that way. I’ve noticed I tend to break out less whenever I’m consistent with facial steaming. It’s also a great “priming” step for masking. Selene followed by Catharsis (with a bit of pAra’s Soma) is a revelation. And not only is my skin better for it but so is my scalp. Why? After the facial steam, I strain out the medley of flora and save it in the fridge for a hair rinse. My scalp rejoices each time during this special treat. The facial steam results also last a solid 2 weeks for me, meaning a little goes a long way since I only need to steam every other week (sometimes longer). I am holding on tight to the end of this bag, but I will definitely be picking up more this year.
T O O L S :
Lanshin Pro Gua Sha Tool ($125, R 2020)
If you’re a long-time subscriber, you’ve heard me talk countless times about the Lanshin Pro Gua Sha Tool, and for good reason. This would be my desert island tool. If you love facial gua sha, no tool can top this one. Its carefully researched and designed shape and edges fit into the hand and contours of the face seamlessly. Its luxurious weight feels substantial while remaining light enough for comfort throughout the routine. Every time I use it (and I’ve used this updated and refined version for two years now), I’m in awe of what an incredibly well-thought-out tool this is. It is truly a work of art.
Lanshin Nephrite Sculpting Spoon ($58, R 2020)
While the Pro Gua Sha Tool can indeed do anything, the Lanshin Nephrite Sculpting Spoon is not to be overlooked as it’s excellent for both the facial massage pro and beginner. For the pro, this is a great booster tool. It really lets you get in around the eyes, which, I’m extra thankful for after staring into a screen for 12 hours a day. But it is also great for controlled work to soothe the jaw (a place I hold a great deal of stress) or TMJ symptoms. For the beginner, this tool is incredibly intuitive. Beautifully soft beveled edges and rounded ends provide a gentle but effective massage whether you’re trying to depuff or relax the tissue. Plus its slender size makes it easy to keep just about anywhere for whenever you’re seeking a break (travel, desk, bedside, etc.).
In other news, we’ve officially welcomed the kittens into our family. Truthfully, we were goners once they stayed on our property (outside) as they were already a part of the family. But once the weather got colder, we couldn’t bear the thought of them freezing out in the snow! So we took them to the vet to get all checked up and brought them in just before Christmas!
Muto definitely had an inkling of “something is happening,” but was still shocked by the surprise. While there was some hissing from him, and one or two yelps and spats, they’re all doing great! I’m super proud of Muto for being as gentle and welcoming as he’s been. The kittens have been tearing up the house (to be expected), and it’s been a struggle to sleep when they’re on “it’s 3AM, our playtime” time. My mom also came to visit for 10 days, so there was plenty of excitement to be had.
I just wanted to share a few photos of them acclimating today. And in case you’re wondering, San Mai is the one we formerly called, “King.” We’re thrilled our family is growing and that Muto now has brothers!
Thanks so much for reading! If you haven’t watched the ‘Harry Potter 20th Anniversary: Return to Hogwarts’ on HBO Max, now’s your chance! I’ll be talking about it in an upcoming newsletter.
How was your Holiday Season? I would love to know what your skincare favorites of 2021 have been! You can always leave a comment or reply directly to this email to chat one-on-one.
As always, I hope you have a great start to your week/year! See you Jan. 16!
