075. An Update on Beauty and Championing
Plus Horror Month Feature No. 1: ‘Malignant’
Hi, I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a weekly newsletter on all things slow: beauty, fashion, living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure but thank you if you do.
A lot has happened recently, and now that the newsletter is every two weeks, I have an abundance of updates!
Kosas Cloud Set ($34, 9g | .33oz, available in 10 shades, last written in Newsletter 058)
It’s been five months since I opened this powder, and I stopped using it four months in. The consensus is that I do not like this powder. It’s just not for me. The main contributing factors are that it hardpans, needs a particular type of brush, and doesn’t set anything.
I don’t mind powders that hardpan. This is a term I recently learned from fellow Youtuber, Kackie. I’m so thankful for this description because I’ve never been able to explain it adequately! Hard panning is when the accumulation of oil from your skincare or skin causes a powder to condense and form a hard surface layer. This makes it challenging to get the product onto your brush. I’ve used powders that hardpan in the past and don’t mind it unless I can’t pick up the product. The Kosas Cloud Set is one such hardpan. I cannot pick up any powder no matter what type of brush I use (natural, synthetic, loose, dense). Thus, I have to scrape off the top layer, which creates so much wasted product and upkeep that I don’t care for.
It is also one of the most finicky powders I’ve encountered where your tool can make or break the performance. I have a wide range of brushes, and I have only found one brush that can work with this powder. It’s a large, fluffy, natural goat hair face powder brush. The hairs are quite coarse compared to some of my other goat hair brushes, which helps pick up product. I’ve never used a powder where only one brush works with it, so it was a disappointing factor for me.
Last but not least, is the most frustrating point: its finish and performance. The finish is my fault. The reason I powder is to reduce or remove unwanted shine. This one is advertised as not removing “glow,” so I should have known better. This gives such a luminous finish on my skin that it ends up adding back the shine it took down. Then there’s the ultimate nail in the coffin: it does not set anything (SPF or makeup). I don’t think I use the most emollient of sunscreens or makeup. I tend to gravitate towards semi to fully matte finishes. This powder can make my skin look terrible, even when it’s not.
Even on tried and true makeup items that look beautiful with other powders, the makeup will migrate, gather, and break up throughout the day. It clings and accentuates dryness, and even on great skin days, if used overboard or with the wrong combination of makeup, it will make my skin look dire.
This is a powder I just can’t get on board with.
Kosas Air Brow - Tinted (Black) and Clear ($22 ea., 3.7g | .12floz, last written in Newsletter 056)
When I think about whether or not I would repurchase the Kosas Air Brows, I go back and forth. On some days, I love them and can’t imagine living without them. But on other days, there are just some quirks that make me unsure. Then there’s the question of if I had to choose, which one would it be?
At first, my favorite was the Tinted version in Black. It gives me the filled-in, fluffy, not crunchy brows of my dreams. With one product, I could get color, fill, and hold. However, as it ages, the formula starts to dry similar to mascaras, making it much more difficult to go in with a light hand. And the older it gets, the more it flakes.
So as both of these aged, my allegiance switched over to the Clear version. When first opened, this definitely gave my brows that laminated effect. Super-defined and lengthened brow hairs with a good amount of hold, though not as much as the tinted version. If over-applied, it could make the hairs look shiny and glossy too: not my preference. What’s interesting is every aspect mellows out with age. It has less hold, but it also loses some of that gloss. And as someone who loves to fill in with brow powder, I enjoy how it looks more now than in the beginning! It still defines and lengthens my brows, but they feel less laminated (thus more comfortable) and make my hairs look fluffier.
The most interesting thing is that now, five months into a six-month PAO, the combination of the two is the best. If I start with the clear, then go over with the tinted, it gives me a strong, well-filled brow that’s fluffy and not flaky. Something about coating the hairs in the clear version first allows the tinted version to glide on in a light layer. The only issue is I would not repurchase both. It’s impossible to get through both of these in the six-month PAO. Even with daily use as I have been.
You can also see in the photo above that my clear version is also not looking too great. I apply my sunscreen, base (foundation or concealer), and powder before I do my brows, so the brush naturally picks up product and disperses it back into the tube. It’s turned very gloopy. I would not feel comfortable using it past the six-month mark.
As of now, my heart leans towards the clear version, but I’ll let you know the final decision if I repurchase.
SALT & STONE Lightweight Sheer Daily Sunscreen SPF 40 ($34, 2floz | 60ml, last written in Newsletter 064)
This has become my favorite SPF. I’ll admit that it was not love at first sight, but I have genuinely grown to love all this does for my skin. This sunscreen makes my skin look amazing. I have never encountered a mineral SPF that has:
Stayed put as well as this formula
Provide me that glass skin look without oil, or any overly greasy-feeling or slip
Natural, mineral SPFs are notorious for having a white cast, clinging to dry patches, accentuating them because of said cast, and being too oily, greasy, or slippery. This one is oil-free. So it already loses that greasy, slip-factor. It boasts a lot by having both “lightweight” and “sheer” in the name as well. The way this sunscreen works into and sits on the skin did take some getting used to. Aside from the matte MyChelle Liquid Sun Shield, I’ve only ever used mineral sunscreens that contained oils. Once I got used to the texture, it does indeed feel lightweight! It also is one of the sheerest mineral sunscreens I’ve used. If I were to apply the same amount in a different sunscreen, I would have a much more noticeable white cast. This one works into the skin beautifully, and if applied in layers, is the closest to sheer that I’ve ever seen!
If I were the type to love glass or super glowy skin, I would apply this and be off on my way. Alas, I prefer a finish that doesn’t cause my flyaway hairs to get stuck on my face. And so, I simply powder after I use this, and it is the “base” that I have been loving for the last four months. True love!
It’s just such a comfortable wearing sunscreen. It also stays put on the face; no migrating here! Plus, it’s housed in a fully recyclable aluminum tube. You can use any key with it if you have an extra lying around. I’m currently using a Davids toothpaste one to ensure I can use every last dollop. And in case you’re looking for a little demo, I used it in my latest YouTube video here. This will absolutely be a repurchase!
For the past few months, I’ve been at a standstill with the term “affiliate.” Something about it doesn’t sit quite right with me. It feels very corporate, clinical, impersonal. So then I thought, “Well, what about ambassador?” This is heading in the right direction, but a bit formal. And then, late one night, it finally hit me, why not be a champion instead.
As with the art of semantics, the emotion of a word feels different to everyone. But here’s why I think championing is the best way to describe why I am an affiliate of certain brands.
If you read Newsletter 073, the news of cutting back on PR, collaborations, and thus, affiliates is not unfamiliar. I am slowly in the process of trying to decide which brands I want to move forward with and which I don’t. But today, I wanted to share a few, old and new, that are easy keepers and the reasons why I choose to champion these brands. (Plus, it gives me a chance to gush about the ones I love!)
The following three brands all have these in common:
Minimal packaging: the actual shipment is very streamlined in its presentation. Whether that means bottles housed in recyclable boxes, entirely biodegradable or recyclable filling, or no extraneous packaging, these items are delivered with care without any loss in style.
Sustainability: No matter the category of their goods, these brands are committed to sustainability. If it’s a skincare brand, it stems from growing ingredients on their organic farm to seeking and creating long-term partnerships with vetted vendors who utilize sustainable harvesting practices. If it’s a clothing brand, it starts from deep research of fabrics that are recyclable or reusable to creating mesh fabrics right here in the USA.
Industry and beyond: brands after my own heart pay it forward. Outside of their craft and specialties, they still find the time, effort, and want to give back. This includes partnering with non-profits, directly giving back to the community, and providing jobs or education.
Quality: Last but certainly not least is the number one criteria that keep me coming back, and that is their impeccable quality. Skincare is notoriously personal to everyone and every skin. But anyone can find something beautiful, effective, and nourishing in these lines. And of course, the majority if not all of their ingredients are certified organic, sustainably wildcrafted, and certified cruelty-free. Garments are the same as fit is one of the toughest things to get right, so when I find a place that does, I hold on tight. Not to mention acquiring or producing sustainable fabrics can be incredibly tough as well. So brands conscious of material sourcing, purpose, and renewable garment lifespans are very much appreciated.
Earthwise Beauty
Earthwise Beauty is a longstanding, long-loved skincare brand in the green beauty world for a reason. Several items from the line have been favorite discoveries of my year thus far. My skin is absolutely loving an EWB regimen (including mask and steams to come)! Aside from what it’s done for my skin, the people behind the brand are proactive and caring in a variety of ways. Their Instagram is a wealth of knowledge for all things skin. I love that the content is provided by three incredible women from different backgrounds and career positions. It’s a mini-community of voices I enjoy the most during any rare Instagram scroll. The brand is also one example of using minimal packaging without sacrificing style. The beautiful boxes that encase their bottles and jars allow the items to ship carefully snug yet look beautiful upon opening. Make sure to peek inside for stunning photography from the brand’s Art Director, Shena! And I can’t go without noting one stellar packaging detail: the cellulose bags their teas are housed in. They are home and facility compostable and marine-degradable! You can be worry-free knowing these will break down anywhere, even in landfills and marine environments. They have a Commitment to Sustainability section on their website that’s great for further reading.
10% off any order any time with code “tenderforms”
Underbares
This brand might ring a bell if you’ve been a longtime subscriber. Last written during the holidays in Newsletter 033, this is one of my favorite undergarment brands ever. We all know bras are expensive. This is why I think it should say something that I own not one, not two, not even three, but FOUR of the Underbares Mesh U-Bras in a variety of colors. While the Mesh U-Bra is how I found them, the company as a whole is the reason I keep going back. First, they are size and shape inclusive (I’m looking at you, Organic Cotton Boxer Brief). I haven’t come across a brand that’s made me and my roly-poly (that’s what I call my tum area) feel as accepted and loved as Underbares has! Second, my heart will always be with Made in the USA brands. In fact, the mesh for the Mesh U-Bras is made in Rhode Island! Third, they have a recycling program. Recycling is the most complicated for undergarments, so I’m especially grateful for this one.
10% off any order any time with code “COMFYCREW-MT-10”
evanhealy
You know evanhealy’s Tinted Oil Serum Foundation is my favorite in that category, period. I also adore their color balms and HydroSouls now that I’ve finally tried one. evanhealy is one of the OG and early trailblazers of organic skincare. Just one of the many reasons I love them is for their well-considered and easily digestible ingredient list. All their oil serums and HydroSouls are certified organic by Oregon Tilth. They’ve been around since 1999 and have partnered with small organic family farms, women’s co-ops, and tribal villages worldwide for decades. They’re also highly accessible being one of the mainstay brands at Whole Foods. Not to mention their cross-nation partner estheticians, including one in Hawaii!
Also, for those who were asking, their linen face wash cloth is back in stock!
10% off with code “TENDERFORMS” Subscribe to their Truth Seekers Newsletter too!
You can always head here (@tenderforms Instagram bio link) for other discounts! The majority are not affiliate links though I may receive reward points.
I am a big fan of James Wan and his range in style. I get goosebumps thinking of his smooth, intricate establishing shots, and his play of light and dark and everything in between sends chills down my spine. When a horror film is on my watchlist, I avoid any detailed synopsis, trailer, reviews at all cost. However, sometimes they’re unavoidable to my dismay. And when it came to ‘Malignant,’ Wan’s latest director/story/producer project, I had heard a mere one line that spiked all of my anticipation levels. It was something along the lines of:
“People who watched this said it deeply upset them.”
I mean, as a horror fan… Sign. Me. Up.
When it was finally released on HBO Max on September 10th, I believe the tagline on the app was “A new vision of terror.” Again, chills.
‘Malignant’ was nothing I imagined, but everything I loved. It lived up to its tagline. Terror is the perfect descriptor because neither thriller nor horror feels right. It’s simply sheer terror. I didn’t want it to end. Some say it started a bit slow, but I disagree. What I loved most was that it hooked me from the beginning with the familiar Wan factor. Excellent camera-work, sound design, and play of what lives in the shadows (whether mentally or physically).
Wan has no doubt grown and gained so much traction in Hollywood. I could not be happier for him. Now being a studio favorite in both horror and action genres, it was devilishly divine to see him return to his roots in some ways. Clearly, it’s something he loves.
As for the cast, it begins and ends with Annabelle Wallis. She delivers beyond an A+ performance. Recently, it’s been rare for a horror film to haunt me as much as this one has. I find myself afraid of looking into mirrors in the middle of the night. Sometimes, when my eyes are closed, the images pulse back in gripping visceral detail.
If you didn’t already guess, I won’t be sharing a play-by-play because if you want a horror film experience, this is it! Treat yourself to a Friday, Saturday, even Sunday movie night. Make some popcorn, have a soda, and a selection of candies or snacks while you’re at it. Something that flies well for when you inevitably jump, scream, gasp, reaching for a light, pet, or loved one. Happy viewing!
Thanks so much for reading! Wow, today’s was a lengthy one! Have you discovered any items or brands you love? How is October going for you? Remember, you can always leave a comment or reply directly to this email to chat one-on-one.
As always, I hope you have a great start to your week. See you at the end of October!
