106. Beauty 2023 Index: Pt. 1 Skincare

Catching Up With the Year’s Most Memorable Skincare

Hi, I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a bi-weekly newsletter on all things slow: beauty, fashion, living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure, but thank you if you do.

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Happy New Year! Each year seems to move faster, but 2023 truly flew by. If you’re a long-time subscriber, then you know of my unintended but necessary half-year hiatus. However, the Tender Forms Newsletter is and will be back! We’re starting off with some of my favorite newsletters to write, the annual Tender Forms Indices.

If you’re new, the “Index” newsletters are my “Best of” compilations. There’s a great deal of goodness to share, so let us dive into the most memorable skincare of 2023! Any repeats from previous years will read “R” followed by the year it’s a repeat of. *Links within paragraphs lead to previous newsletters with fuller reviews.

Below is a quick glance at what’s included:

2023 Index: Skincare

TONER / SERUM / OIL / EYE OIL / BALM / LIP BALM / SPF / CLEANSER / TREATMENT + TOOLS

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T O N E R 

CAP Beauty Serotoner ($58, 3.38floz | 100ml)

Wildcare Rosemary & Bay Hydrosol ($24, 2oz, R 2020)

Honorable Mention: 

Wildcare Whole Body Rose Hydrosol ($54, 100ml | 3.38oz)

CAP Beauty’s Serotoner was a standout find this year. It’s CAP Beauty’s first launch of their in-house line, and they knocked it out of the park. Using Serotoner makes me infinitely impatient to see what else they’ll launch in the future. For those who don’t know, CAP Beauty is one of my favorite online retailers and used to be a brick-and-mortar and spa in NYC. It was the first facial I ever treated myself to, and it holds a very special place in my heart. Kerrilynn Pamer has such an expert eye when it comes to curation; all the brands and items they carry are a serious testament to that. 

Serotoner is more than just a toner, at least to me. Yes, it easily fills in the spot of facial mist and toner, but unlike most, this deeply hydrates and moisturizes like none other. I can simply layer this on bare-face days, and my skin is happy. There’s no need for serum, oil, or balm after. Of course, it works beautifully with all of those items. A little goes a long way. I tend to use two spritzes all over the face and neck and bookend my evening skincare routine with it. I start with this on a clean face and after all other items, will seal it all in with another two spritzes. 

When I think of how to describe the scent, the term “happiness” first comes to mind. But to be specific, it’s creamy coconut forward with wisps of something floral and is subtly citrusy. If I absolutely had to choose, CAP Beauty’s Serotoner would hold first place. 

Whenever Wildcare’s Rosemary & Bay Hydrosol is in my life, it can’t be helped to be part of the year’s most memorable. However, I used it more this year as a scalp treatment, which was a wonder to behold. My scalp is extremely sensitive, and especially during changes in weather, it can be thrown way off balance. Rosemary & Bay has an inimitable quality to gently balance and restore health to my scalp. Its soothing quality naturally makes it a skin-soother, whether on the face or body—a true multi-use item. 

The Wildcare Whole Body Rose Hydrosol deserves an honorable mention. While I’d be more than happy with the first two as my only facial mists and toners, the Whole Body Rose is quite special. This replaced my previously loved Earthwise Beauty Three Roses. It has similar qualities and ingredients, but as with all of Cort’s (founder and formulator) offerings, it has a particular positive energy of its own that is rarely found and consistent within the natural skincare world: soft, soothing, but with a gentle zing. 

S E R U M

Monastery REI  ($110, 30ml | 1oz)

“Wow” is simply what comes to mind. I was absolutely blown away by REI. I categorized it underneath serum, but I suppose it could fall under “treatment,” though I don’t think that would do it justice. REI is one of those remarkable hybrid products that does more than meets the eye, and that’s because it is a serum, moisturizer, retinol, and eye cream all in one. Yes, the retinol is what drew me in. At 35 this year, I finally felt now was the time to start my retinol journey. I’ve barely dabbled in the previous years with samples but none clicked for my skin. REI was an immediate match, which I was and was not surprised by. (I’ve been a long-time fan of the Monastery line, and so has my skin.) 

I tried it first as part of their Discovery Kit and could not believe how untraditionally “retinol” it felt. The texture is a silky gel cream, and the scent is akin to marshmallow with a whispered herbal note intertwined. After my evening cleanse and mist, I use a pump and a half three times a week. This took me a while to build up to just because I was being overly cautious (sensitive skin people will understand). Yes, I did have a bit of dry patches happening early on when I first incorporated it into my routine, but I was surprised by how short that lasted, and there was no irritation to be found. All in all, a very mild response, which I was overjoyed by. And then came the results. 

One of the main reasons I thought it was time for retinol is because I noticed a general lack of enthusiasm in my skin to say the least. It didn’t bounce back as quickly and felt like it had lost some of its usual plumpness. But with REI, my skin’s been happier, healthier, smoother, more radiant, lessened lines, overall brighter, the list goes on. Did I mention it makes a fantastic eye cream? On nights when I use it, I’ll bring it underneath the eyes the way I would with an eye cream, and it’s made the areas smoother, plumper, and diminished fine lines. It feels gentle enough that I should be able to use this every day if I wanted to, but I don’t feel the need to quite yet because of the results I’ve seen (I’ve been using this for over half a year). I could not recommend this more if, like me, you have dehydrated, sensitive skin with an (almost) irrational fear of adding retinol into your routine because of horror stories. 

O I L  

Monastery ROSE Cleansing Oil ($48, 2.03oz | 60ml)

This has been a favorite for years, and I’m quite surprised that it’s never made it onto an index until now, considering that I almost always have a bottle with me. But if any year was the year it must be celebrated, let it be 2023. 

You might be wondering why I put a cleansing oil as the only item in the oil category. That’s because Athena (founder and formulator) is a genius, and everything she creates is multipurpose. ROSE is their number-one bestseller, and it’s easy to see why. It’s an entire skincare routine in one. You can strip your entire, yes, entire routine and just use ROSE. It is that healing, soothing, moisturizing, stunning. 

First, the scent. I am not a rose fan, so it takes quite a lot to get me to adore a rose product as much as I adore this one. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of using this, you immediately know why. The scent is unlike any other rose scent because it’s an experience unto itself. Transporting, all-enveloping, heady. It’s not a rose garden; it’s a rose forest complete with early morning dew, thick forest mist, and evening shade (especially when removed with a damp warm cloth). The scent alone is powerful, but its true power lies in its inimitable healing capability. Sensitive, reactive, acne-prone friends, this one’s for you. 

I use three drops of this as my facial oil, and my skin basks in all its glory. It is so soothing and heals acne (at any stage) like none other. It’s deeply moisturizing and consistently encourages skin health and growth. I’m going to cheat here a bit and continue to speak about its amazing cleansing properties. 

As mentioned earlier, this can be an entire skincare routine in one. It is a fantastic cleansing oil. It’s non-emulsifying, making it excellent for a rich, cushiony experience while removing all SPF, makeup, and grime. It is great for focusing on congested areas as well. Simply remove with a damp warm cloth and reveal soft, plump, smooth, balanced skin. Continue with a few drops as your facial oil (yes, please use it around the eyes because it makes a delectable eye oil, too), and you’re done. 

If your skin is ever feeling overwhelmed, I’d highly recommend taking a few days and using just the ROSE oil. You’ll be surprised by how happy one item alone will make your skin. (No mist? No problem. I’ve simply splashed my face with water and not dried it off in replacement.) 

E Y E O I L  

Monastery ROSE Cleansing Oil ($48, 2.03oz | 60ml)

Monastery REI  ($110, 30ml | 1oz)

No dedicated eye product this year because I’ve used either Monastery ROSE or REI as my eye oil or cream and haven’t looked back since. I love how the line lets me strip back my routine without comprising results. 

B A L M

Jordan Samuel Skin Moisture Recovery Cream ($34, 1.7oz | 50ml, R 2022)

Last year, the JSS Moisture Recovery Cream received an Honorable Mention, but I’m happy to report it takes the top and only spot this year. You truly cannot beat this gem of a product. It’s an absolute delight to use, silky, creamy, and skin barrier friendly. Great as a mixing medium with other skincare or even makeup (think tinted moisturizer). It’s affordable, accessible, and will last you a long time. What’s not to love?  

L I P B A L M

URB APOTHECARY Basil Mint Lip Balm ($12, .35oz, R 2021, 2022)

Three years running and not stopping anytime soon! Every year, I try at least a new lip balm, if not more, and thus far, I return to this one. Surprisingly, it’s my favorite despite my preference for thinner lip balms leaning more on the lip oil side. But the formulation of this one is simply unbeatable. The scent is soft and gentle, and the texture is creamy with hold and has a better “dry down” than most, which is probably why I don’t mind the thicker consistency. It’s just a joy to wear.  

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S P F

LESSE Every Tone SPF 30 ($85, 2floz | 60ml)

Zoca Lotion Reef-Safe Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 36($24, 7.5ml | 2.5floz)

My, how far mineral sunscreens have come, and it’s a delight to see. What’s great is that I’ve found two I love, and they represent both the highest and lowest price points, ha! 

If I had to choose, I’m (not) sorry that my vote goes toward the higher-end one. The LESSE Every Tone SPF 30 is unforgettable. It wasn’t love at first sight either, but oh, how I’ve grown to adore it. This is the best sunscreen. There, I said it. Everything about it is grand. 

The scent is singular: spicy, subtly sweet, herbal, and slightly fruity, but I have not come across any other skincare, SPF, or makeup item that smells like or akin to this. It’s heady and intoxicating in the way that only special scents can be. The texture is creamy and luscious. I go in with the CAP Serotoner, then follow with two pumps of this, and my morning skincare is done. How fabulous is that? I am a minimalist at heart, and being able to do this sends me to the moon. 

It really is a moisturizer and SPF in one. And I love that the formulation has true skincare benefits with results that I can see. My skin is sensitive and reactive and usually somewhat red in the mornings. But somehow, the Every Tone lessens my redness, soothing my skin throughout the day. It is so comfortable to wear on its own or underneath makeup. It also has a high percentage of non-nano zinc oxide, which I appreciate. However, be warned that you could get a white cast from it depending on how much you use and how long you take to work it into the skin. I’ve had days where it disappears more than any other zinc-oxide formula I’ve tried, but also days where it definitely lightens my skin tone. If you're comfortable doing so, you can mix in some sort of complexion drops, but if you truly want no white cast, I’d suggest either the Le Prunier Plumscreen or Ava Isa Sun-è-Serum Drops SPF 35 Sunscreen. I wish they would come out with sample sachets so everyone could try it because it is undoubtedly worth a shot. 

However, should you be looking for a more affordable option, I recommend the Zoca Lotion SPF 36. The price per ounce is incredible, yes, but the actual formula is equally sensational. The scent of this is clearing, invigorating, and grounding thanks to its mixture of healing oils, butters, and flowers. It’s chamomile forward with something herbal that has a zing to it. 

As for the lotion itself, it’s more cream to butter than lotion. The texture is heavy upon first use, but once applied to the skin, it melts in and has almost a cooling sensation. I’m unsure if the cooling sensation is from the formula or the scent, but either way, my skin thanks it. While it’s comfortable to wear, there is a learning curve when it comes to application. Because the texture is so thick, it was a mistake for me to attempt to rub it into my skin. Not only is the texture thick, but the formula itself is deeply moisturizing, so I don’t think oily skin types would enjoy this as much as drier skin types. 

It may be easier to rub in if I layered skincare underneath, but because it’s so moisturizing, I only use the CAP Serotoner underneath, just as I do with the LESSE SPF. I’ve found the best way to apply this is to warm it up in my hands first, then pat it onto my face. I probably use more than I should, which is why there is a white cast. But I find when I rub it directly into the skin, it can pick up on texture that I didn’t notice was even there and is more likely to catch onto any dry patches. Patting it on and into the skin gives a seamless application and a healthy glow. Did I mention this makes an excellent makeup primer? Thanks to its emollience, I found complexion products I couldn’t use before now sit beautifully on the skin.

I’ve also mixed in drops of foundation to create a tinted SPF and love it. Because the percentage of non-nano zinc oxide is so high, and the fact that there is 2.5oz in the tube, the sunscreen will last you a good long while! However, there are pros and cons to the packaging. I will always choose an aluminum tube or plastic packaging. However, the printing on the label rubs off easily, and that’s a pet peeve of mind. And so, I decant this into a smaller pot to use day to day then refill when needed. Overall, it’s a great sunscreen that’s moisturizing in an affordable and easily recyclable package!

C L E A N S E R

Monastery ROSE Cleansing Oil ($48, 2.03oz | 60ml)

Stark MUDPUPPY Solid Cleansing Balm ($22, 2oz, $25 with travel tin)

Wildcare Singing Leaves Cleansing Oil  ($43, 1.7oz | 50ml, R 2022)

27 Rosiers Fight Grime Cleanser ($39, 3.4floz | 100ml)

My favorite category was stacked with standout cleansers this year. And somehow, I was able to find one in every “category” of cleanser. We’ve already covered the beauty that is the Monastery ROSE, which covers our non-emulsifying oil cleanser. 

Next up would be the solid cleanser, which goes to Stark’s MUDPUPPY Solid Cleansing Balm. This was a welcome relief for my sensitive, itchy spring/summer skin! I purchased this with the travel tin, which acted as a soap dish for me. The bar comes as a vegan solid puck comprised of all good things, such as colloidal oats, rich butters, and yellow clay. I tend to use this two ways: 1. For the most gentle cleanse, I simply wet my hands and then create a creamy lather before massaging onto the face. 2. I wet my face and gently apply the bar directly to the skin in circular motions for a slightly more exfoliating experience. Both are lovely, just depends on what you’re after. 

The scent is like a mild vanilla, gently sweet and creamy. The experience itself is wonderful and while it can remove SPF and makeup, I mostly used it as a second cleanse. And that’s because since there are small pieces of oats within the bar, if I’m not careful, they can travel into my eye, which is unpleasant, to say the least. Since I always wear some form of eye makeup, I’d have to remove eye makeup first before going in with the bar. But my skin loved the soothing quality of the formula, and I actively missed it once it was finished. 

As for an emulsifying oil cleanser, nothing beats the Wildcare Singing Leaves Cleansing Oil. Packed with all the best leaf infusions, flower essences, and plant and resin extracts, it’s simply the most elegant emulsifying oil cleanser out there. Because of Wildcare’s business restructure last year, it’s unclear when the next batch of Singing Leaves will return so I highly suggest signing up for email notifications. 

Last but not least is the category of gel cleanser, which goes to the 27 Rosiers Fight Grime Cleanser. This one was recommended to me by my friend, Asti, who always has a second sense about things I’ll love (thank you, Asti!). Normally, gel cleansers are always second cleansers for me, but the Fight Grime Cleanser is fantastic at removing makeup and SPF. It’s a disarmingly great multipurpose cleanser acting as a first cleanse, second cleanse, or both for a double cleanse. The scent is very “fresh” and leans more traditional spa-item but in the best way possible. And the experience itself is so refreshing. This is a stronger cleanser, meaning your skin will feel deep cleansed and “squeaky,” which, as we all know, can border on the edge of feeling “stripping.” It makes a great cleanser in the summer, but I’ve come to love it all year round. I add a drop or two of facial or cleansing oil to tamp down the squeaky clean feel if needed. It’s also on the more affordable end and will last you a good while. One pump is more than enough on bare skin and you would only ever need two pumps max. 

T R E A T M E N T + T O O L S

Wildcare Soft Focus Coconut and Pearl Mask ($48, 3.38oz | 100ml)

Lanshin Pro Gua Sha Tool ($129, R 2020, 2021, 2022)

Lanshin Nephrite Sculpting Spoon  ($59, R 2020, 2021, 2022)

Lanshin Massager by Acera in Oyster Grey. ($59, R 2022)

Wildcare’s Soft Focus Mask was hands down my favorite of 2023. I can’t believe how long it’s taken me to try this mask, and it did not disappoint. If your skin is feeling overheated, irritated, sensitive, or “prickly,” for lack of a better term, this will bring instant relief. It is one of the most soothing, creamy, and luxurious masks I’ve ever tried. When it comes to skincare, I find I need to use less than most, but in the case of this mask, I followed directions using 1 tablespoon mixed with water and the experience is heavenly. The scent reminds me of the best Taiwanese pineapple cakes, so it hits extra hard in the nostalgic olfactory category. The instant this mask is on your skin, you feel the best cooling sensation ever. And while you might think this would only work in the hotter months, this is equally soothing on wind-burned skin or dry winter skin. It feels deeply hydrating and gently exfoliates during and upon removal, and the skin is left smooth, hydrated, and soft. 

The only downside is that because you have to use so much each time, the jar doesn’t last as long as I would like. And when I cut back on the amount I use, the feel isn’t quite the same. I’m sure there’s a happy medium somewhere, but I haven’t found the right ratio just yet. 

As for massage tools, the usual contenders should be no surprise. Everything Lanshin as it always is. However, I thought I’d break it down this time by personality to help you choose should you need help: 

• The Do-It-All: Pro Gua Sha Tool. As the “Pro” name suggests, this will get you the best results. It requires more consistency and attention to detail in terms of motion/movement, but the results can’t be beat. 

• For the “hard to keep a routine” one: Sculpting Spoon. Its compact nature makes it easy to hold, travel with, and use. You don’t have to think too much about the movements and can let intuition guide you and still get results. 

• For face and body: The Massager. Yes, I have used this on the face, and it’s great, although I use it without the hot water to be extra safe with temperature. This was designed for the body, so if body massage is more important, then this one’s the way to go. 

To see all three in action, visit my Lanshin YouTube video. 

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Thanks so much for reading! It’s been a while since we caught up. I’d love to hear about your most memorable 2023 skincare and how you’re doing! Feel free to leave a comment or reply directly to this email to chat one-on-one.

As always, I hope you have a great start to your week. See you next Sunday!