048. Gather Perfume, Margaret
The beauty of botanical fragrance and a film as relevant today as it was a decade ago.
Hi! I’m Maggie, and welcome to Tender Forms Off-Camera: a weekly newsletter about slow beauty and slow living. Links in this newsletter may include affiliate links or discount referrals. If you enjoy and would like to support this newsletter, click the button below or shop through my links! No pressure but thank you if you do.
I am unafraid to admit that I am still relatively new to natural botanical fragrances. As someone with a sometimes sensitive nose, fragrance can seem daunting. But from the few brands I’ve tried thus far, it’s been nothing short of an exciting and beautiful journey.
The latest destination on my olfactory travels is Gather Perfume. Ananda Wilson is the founder and perfumer, but she’s also an artist, herbalist, and mother. Her unique primary background is in contemporary dance. This immediately makes so much sense to me because of how her fragrances feel, but I’ll get to that soon. Her secondary background is in plant medicine, having grown up in a Transcendental Meditation community. Her herbalism background has led her to create a skincare line with her mother and teaching herbalism. And her life as a mother of two undoubtedly weaves its way into the brand as she consistently searches for purity thanks to her caregiving nature.
Ananda so kindly reached out and gifted me a breathtaking assemblage of her line.
The unboxing experience was so beautiful. My heart skipped beats, my nose filled with delicate aromas as my eyes devoured the contrast between dried flowers and dark tissue paper. Ananda had hand-drawn and handwritten a card for me. It’s now in my collection of cards from loved ones. Past the note were deceivingly simple linen bags with hemp cords tied in a bow protecting the gorgeous presents within.
Each perfume is housed in a rich black paper box with its own notes card, perfume bottle, and atomizer sprayer. Simply remove the cap and insert the atomizer yourself. I found this a personal and beautiful way to discover the perfume as if it were meant to be used when I opened it. Of course, you can choose to forgo the atomizer too. The boxes are also filled with delightful hints of the scent through dried petals and leaves. All flowers you see in these photos are from the fragrance boxes!
Before I dive into each fragrance, I want to cover a few characteristics they all share. One is longevity. All of the scents I’ve tried have incredible lasting power. I’m talking a solid seven hours at least, and that’s with just one spritz. The second is color. Because they’re all housed in clear glass bottles, the uniqueness of each one’s hues really shines through. Third, are the labels. The 5ml and 15ml come with tags or labels that specify notes, style, and size for easy reference. And I love that Ananda includes a style section. It’s perfect for someone like me with limited perfume knowledge who wants to understand the scent. Fourth is the size options. All perfumes come in a 5ml ($45) or 10–15ml ($72–$135) as the full-size. They’re also all available as 1/2ml samples, which is incredible since scents work differently on everyone.
Let’s start with some of the samples. The three in the first photo above is the Gather Perfume Discovery Set of her latest release, The Resin Collection. These were the very first items I tried, and what an introduction to this stunning line! All three are perfumes. CAESURA was the very first I put on and remains my favorite (okay, again, it’s hard for me to choose, but at least top three). What an incredibly gentle, protecting, and dancing scent. It feels like this song:
I say dancing because it conjures up visions of flowing tulle and silk on dancers in motion. There’s an ethereal and warm feeling to this scent that makes it inviting. It also sits close to the skin, which is a quality most of my favorite perfumes share.
I’m not always the best when it comes to describing fragrances, so I will share descriptions of each direct from Gather Perfume. The following describes CAESURA:
Style: Tea Gourmand, Chai, Incense
Prominent Notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Yerba Mate, Saffron, Frankincense, Opopanax, Sandalwood, Juniper, Jasmine, Cedarwood
Upon application, it smells green and sweet. Usually, I’m not one for sweet scents, but this one is so balanced with the green and tones down as it wears. I didn’t get any nausea or headaches. And I love that it becomes muskier as the day goes on. It’s a beautiful scent to live and be in.
Both UNDERSTORY and SASTUN, unfortunately, were not a match for me. UNDERSTORY, while resin-like, warm, and spicy, gave me headaches. And SASTUN, while much fruitier and perhaps the brightest of the bunch, made me a bit nauseous when I was too close to it.
The other sample pack of four is from her permanent line. From this group, I’ve only tried one so far, and that is BASIL. Remember how I mentioned that I can’t choose a favorite? Well, this one is definitely also in my top three. This scent is incredible.
Style: Herbaceous, Unisex, Cologne Effect, Classy Yet Grounded
Prominent Notes: Basil, Petitgrain Sur Fleur, Neroli Blosson, Mitti Earth Attar, Vetiver, Jasmine, Tomato, Yarrow, Labdanum
Upon reading “cologne effect,” I wasn’t sure what that meant until I tried it. It somehow is cologne-like! The scent is quite strong when first applied but mellows as it wears. And the longer it wears, the more I like it. It’s funky in the best way like when chefs describe an ingredient as funky, it’s a positive thing and adds to the experience. I’m not wearing it today, but even as I write this, I can’t help but smile thinking about it. It’s divine. Bonus feature, this one lasts the longest on me.
Now let’s talk about the 15ml botanical perfume, TEA SEASON. This (to me) is a complex scent.
Style: Steeped Tea, Gourmand, Cozy, Classic, Layered
Prominent Notes: Black Tea, Bergamot, Aglaia, Jasmine, Vanilla, Honey, Vetiver, Saffron, Osmanthus, Oak wood
TEA SEASON is all it’s described to be. Black Tea is at the forefront, and as it dries, it takes on a warmer and sweeter definition. It does indeed feel cozy, yet the bright notes in it give it a freshness that I relate to as “classic.” Though this is a beautiful scent that I think many would enjoy, the strength of it, unfortunately, makes me a bit woozy and nauseous.
On the other hand, one that does work with me is SAMARA. Its primary description is spot on because this truly captures “the unfurling of Spring.”
Style: Soft Citrus Green, Classy, Clean, Complex, Slightly Fruity, Faintly Floral, Soft Natural Musk
Prominent Notes: Kaffir Lime Leaf, Delicate Lemon Blossom, Fresh Green Seeds, Violet Leaf, New Rain & Soft Earth, Melon Rinds, Verbena
Pictured below is the 5ml size. I decided to keep the tag on, but you could easily untie and remove it. I love this size offering; it’s my ideal for perfume! SAMARA is a beautifully awakening scent. Something about smelling this clears any fog in my brain and feels like an instant jolt of energy. Once again, the style is the perfect summary. I love this one for everyday wear. It’s so pleasant and feels like an environmental scent to me, meaning it doesn’t necessarily come across as a perfume, but more a walk outdoors in a garden. SAMARA also stays closer to the skin and doesn’t permeate a room as much as TEA SEASON. When it comes to fragrances, I prefer a more intimate proximity scent.
The other 5ml I received is RAINWATER ROSE. Any fragrance titled with Rose is usually a no-go for me. I find them often too powdery, and a powdery rose is my least favorite. However, this one took me by surprise! This scent is like recent skincare I’ve been loving with rose in it. Most notably, the Yuli Halcyon Limited Rose Edition. For those who have tried this cleanser, you know how fresh and sweet a rose it smells like. This is that in perfume form upon the first spritz. Instantly, you catch the floral sweetness suspended in fresh rain. It instantly brings joy every time. As it dries down, it transforms into something headier. And here is where the rose really comes through. The scent somehow captures the transformation of a rose throughout a day, from before sunrise to long after sunset. This one captures the romance of Summer, and if you’re a rose fan, it’s a must.
Style: Floral, Soliflore
Prominent Notes: Wild Roses, Raindrops, Rose Otto, Gentle Earth
One thing about RAINWATER ROSE is that it’s an Eau de Toilette as opposed to the previous two perfumes. I’m so glad the difference is explained on the Gather Perfume website because I couldn’t tell you otherwise. An Eau de Toilette simply means that the aromatics are less substantial than a perfume. I thought this would also mean that it doesn’t last as long, but it surprisingly has great longevity like the rest! *I hadn’t opened it at the time I took these photos. The hue is golden amber, deeper than SAMARA pictured here. I would equate SAMARA to the color of acacia honey and RAINWATER ROSE to golden honey.
What was perhaps most surprising amongst these beautiful gifts was the small collection of skincare included! Gather Perfume has an entire Apothecary section filled with gorgeous serums, oils, balms, creams, soaks, and masks.
SPRING EPHEMERAL ($39, 1/2oz) is an incredibly soft and silky eye balm where the delicious scent hits you first. The pure essential oil blend in this makes up less than 1% of the entire formula, yet it fills your system with joy. The beautiful blend includes neroli blossom, rose otto, honey, almond, magnolia, cognac, and more. As if that wasn’t beautiful on its own, those also swirl with the delectable vanilla bean and oils like cherry kernel, camellia, olive squalane, and sandalwood nut. Again, smelling this makes me smile.
It looks hard in the tin but melts immediately upon contact. You know my skincare philosophy is often less is more, but it truly applies here! The faintest swirl of your fingertip is perfect for one undereye area. And this balm is simply stunning. It feels so nourishing and is a pleasure to use with any facial gua sha tool. I’ve been particularly loving it with my Lanshin Nephrite Sculpting Spoon.
I prefer to use this in the evenings because of how emollient this eye balm is. I love that it’s so protecting and healing, but it takes a long time for this to sink into the skin. So far, I’ve only applied it at night, but I am always amazed at how smooth and silky my under eyes are in the mornings now! I also love that the scent is gentle but cyclical. It fades and every so often comes back again, and I love catching it in chance moments.
PRECIOUS ROSE ($69, 1floz) is a facial serum oil that focuses on calming and restoring. I love facial oils and have tried plenty, and the verdict is: I adore this oil. It feels so lightweight, similar to the Marie Veronique for Ayla Dara’s Oil or the AKT Therapy Rad Face Oil. It’s so silky and healing. I’ve been mixing 5 drops (approximately the equivalent of 3 drops with a full-size dropper) into whichever nighttime serum I’m using. It’s been a dream to use. Often with new facial oils, my skin needs to acclimate and might be slightly itchy or break out during the first few uses. This one sank in beautifully and didn’t cause any of those side effects. And I love the savory scent: a grounding mix of the rose otto, sandalwood, and rooibos tea scents intertwined with the lovely olive, jojoba, apricot kernel, argan, and tamanu oils. My skin has been very pleased ever since I started incorporating this into my skincare routine. Because this is such a lightweight oil, it’s gorgeous for daytime use. It creates a perfect canvas for makeup and doesn’t make my skin feel heavy or clogged. If I had more, this would quickly become my daytime facial oil as well.
Last but certainly not least is HONEY ROSEWATER ($30, 2floz), a daily cleansing nectar. This is my absolute favorite out of the skincare items I’ve tried (though I clearly love them all). It blew me away. This, too, smells very much like Yuli’s Rose Halcyon but differs completely when it comes to consistency. Nectar is the perfect way to describe this cleanser because of its (I’m guessing) high ratio of local New England raw honey and glycerin. The scent is of a fresh, juicy, honeyed rose and is the perfect way to end my workday. I’m not a morning cleanser type of person, but this would make an amazing morning cleanser.
I take several dropper fulls (remember this is a mini dropper) into the palm of my hand and spread it across the face. It glides on smoothly and begins to work its magic. I’ve tried this cleanser several ways, and here’s how it went each time:
F I R S T C L E A N S E : applied to dry skin, it works in quickly. Adding in a few drops of water doesn’t necessarily get it to lather, so I remove it with a washcloth. This takes away 90% of my makeup, but it has a tough time with zinc-based sunscreen. I’m currently using the Saie Slip Tints, and it won’t remove all of it. Even going in with this as a second cleanse won’t do the job.
S E C O N D C L E A N S E : Mixing in dry palms causes it to just slightly lather. I spread it onto the face and massage it in. Then I splash some water, and it rinses clean. It’s beautiful paired with any other cleanser you used beforehand. Often my skin doesn’t like second cleanses because it’s so easily dehydrated. But this left my skin smooth, comfortable, and hydrated!
B A R E F A C E C L E A N S E : divine. It feels somewhere between a cream cleanser and an oil cleanser. I wish I had a full bottle of this. It’s so good.
P O W D E R M A S K M E D I U M : I didn’t think of this myself, it was suggested in the directions, and it’s great for this! Because the texture is so similar to pAra botanica’s Komala, it’s perfect as a mixing medium for clay masks. It also prevents any clay from drying out too quickly.
If it wasn’t clear already, Gather Perfume blew me away completely. Each scent is so layered, unique, and bold in its own way. I’m glad to have found so many new ones I love, from CAESURA to BASIL, to RAINWATER ROSE. And while not all the scents were for me, I can absolutely appreciate the artistry that goes into creating and conjuring these scents. And the skincare! All of them a sleeper hit. I’m so excited to dive more into both the perfume and apothecary of Gather Perfume. I already have my eyes on her RESIN DROPS which sounds like a topical healer of my dreams. And, of course, I want to give Ananda a warm and huge thank you for letting me experience all these wonders of her line.
Gather Perfume has a newsletter too. I highly recommend signing up for details on new collections, restocks, sales, and poetry (by Ananda herself)!
*No spoilers.
Since early last year, I have waited for this film to appear on any of our many streaming service subscriptions. Finally, it’s come to HBO Max, and I devoured it this past week. ‘Margaret’ is a 2011 epic drama by Kenneth Lonergan. You may recognize the director from his more recent 2016 film, ‘Manchester by the Sea,’ which won the Oscars for Best Actor and Best Original Screenplay in the 89th Academy Awards®. It is also one of my favorite films of all-time.
I was not prepared for ‘Margaret.’ The version available on HBO Max is Lonergan’s director’s cut, which has a total runtime of 2 hours and 29 minutes.* That’s opus level when it comes to dramas, especially those without action (re: ‘Titanic’). But every minute of it is deserved. *The theatrical release only runs for 1 hour and 29 minutes. I haven’t seen it, so I can’t comment on how that version plays out, but I hope to view it at some point.
To be expected, the film is rated R for a reason. I have now watched two of three Lonergan written and directed films. It’s safe to say that the common theme is: life is rated R. *Ethics and situations discussed or shown include: censorship, death, grief, divorce, love, and grooming (this last one is arguable). The screenplay, acting, directing, and editing are a tremendous feat. Lonergan packs the film with an epic amount of daily life conundrum, musings, debates, and relationships, often resulting in lengthy monologues from multiple actors.
Anna Paquin plays the lead, Lisa Cohen, a teenage girl living in NYC who witnesses a traffic accident. The rest of the film follows her through the aftermath. It’s nothing short of stellar that Lonergan somehow condenses all the twists and turns life can throw at you in just under three hours. Paquin is an underrated actress. She’s incredible in this. And the revolving door of seasoned actors is astounding, making the cast itself a powerhouse (leads and supporting. HBO ‘Succession’ fans, prepare yourselves for some delightful surprises). Casting director Douglas Aibel really outdid himself. The classroom scenes are filled with then younger talent who become well-known later on.
Speaking of the classroom scenes, the film’s title derives from the following poem discussed in one class.
Spring and Fall1
by Gerard Manley Hopkinsto a young child
Márgarét, áre you gríeving
Over Goldengrove unleaving?
Leáves like the things of man, you
With your fresh thoughts care for, can you?
Ah! ás the heart grows older
It will come to such sights colder
By and by, nor spare a sigh
Though worlds of wanwood leafmeal lie;
And yet you wíll weep and know why.
Now no matter, child, the name:
Sórrow’s spríngs áre the same.
Nor mouth had, no nor mind, expressed
What heart heard of, ghost guessed:
It ís the blight man was born for,
It is Margaret you mourn for.
If this hasn’t convinced you to add this to your watchlist, I don’t know what will. Please go forth and watch this film.
Thanks so much for reading! I desperately wanted to talk about a mini docuseries this week, but per usual, the newsletter is too long, so I’m saving it for next week. I would love to know: are you a perfume lover? Which ones do you enjoy? Remember, you can always leave a comment or reply directly to this email to chat one-on-one.
As always, I hope you have a great start to your week. See you next Sunday!